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Routes in Namaste Wall

1/2 Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dost Mitra S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Huecos Rancheros S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Namaste S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twins Paradox S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Conrad Anker
Page Views: 21,964 total, 128/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

There are currently four lines on the obvious, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste." From left to right these are:

1/2 Route: 5.10d and much shorter.

Huecos Rancheros: 5.12c and the longest, most amazing looking line.

Namaste: 5.12a and the steepest line.

Unknown Project: Only a few bolts on this one thus far.

Huecos Rancheros is an amazing line. Follow 11 bolts up very steep, ultra positive holds to a large hueco. Rest here and then reach up and clip; the crux is getting past bolts #12 and #13 where the huecos shrink dramatically in size, things get sequential, and the wall continues to overhang like crazy!

Two ropes to descend, a single 70m won't do it. The rap puts you an astonishing 50' away from the start of the climb.

Protection

15 bolts to an anchor.

Location

Huecos Rancheros is the bolted line second-from-the-left. Left of two adjacent routes in a wide black streak
After establishing namaste and hueco rancheros I had a well known landscape photographer come down on me like a ton of bricks. He had hiked the South Fork for decades, photographed the unique wall and was understandably worked that climbers would desecrate this temple of nature. So word sorta evolved into,"Keep it mum." Eventually the images made it into print in the climbing mags and the word was out. Still quality routes worth the side hike and perhaps the steepest sport climbs in Zion NP.

If you sit in the huecos long enough the canyon wrens will visit you. Nov 22, 2010
Whew. Someone is super enduro-based, Kenneth. Nov 10, 2017
If you try to do this route with 2 ropes (i.e., you don't have the requisite 80m) be very careful and make sure you have 2 belayers to pass a know when lowering. Mar 27, 2017
JoeyJa  
80 meter works on this climb pretty easily. Enrico led and then cleaned on the way down with an 80m and extra to spare. 70 meter will definitely not work Mar 21, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.12a
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.12a
Can I get some salsa with these huecos? 35m of 5.10 jug glory with 2 sit down hueco rests gives ample opportunity to enter the crux with zero pump. The guy I climbed with sat there for 10 minutes in hueco 2 before he started up. The crimps are decent and feet are awesome. No way this is 12c. Regarding the loose bolt mentioned previously, it seems fine as the same guy with me whipped on it 3-4 times, though many of the bolt hangers seem a bit loose, consistent with the other climbs. Glue ins would be a great deal for this area. Like all the others here, spectacular! Apr 21, 2015
David Adams  
 
Amazing route just no other way to put it. However as of July 29 2014 the crux bolt was a 3/8 inch stud that was spinning in its hole. High enough that you would be fine if it pulled but you would go for one hell of a ride haha. Would have replaced it my self if it hadn't been the last day of climbing on our trip. But again really truly amazing line it was a privilege to be able to climb in such a beautiful place. Jul 29, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12c
I found this route to be somewhat out of character with the other routes- and for that reason, i'm not a huge fan. imho, the route would be better as a 38m 5.11c/d to the last hueco before the nasty hard crux that gives the climb its grade. It's just so out of character with the rest of the route, i had a hard time motivating to try and redpoint. To each their own, but I much prefer consistency in my rock climbs. Jun 4, 2014
the crux on this route was for sure 12c... also there were enough quick links half way up this one that we just went in straight and pulled the rope down and ran it through one of the intermediate links. May 4, 2014
Raiden
Royal Oak, MI
  5.12b/c
Raiden   Royal Oak, MI  
  5.12b/c
Similar comment to Pat Mac - a 70m will not get you to the ground without some shenanigans. My belayer had to climb to the 3rd bolt with the knot against his device and I was still ~15' in the air, however there is a nice tree to downclimb. Great route. Apr 22, 2014
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
  5.12c
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
  5.12c
12c all day long - awesome route thanks so much for putting it up and the work that went into it! What a killer climb!! Totally made my whole trip to St George. Jan 3, 2014
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b/c
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b/c
I was able to lower off of Huecos with a 70m from the Anchors. We tied a dead mans knot at the end of the rope. Belayer had to climb to third bold to lower me into the tree (15ft behind the route). He then went in direct and let the rope go through belay device and I was able to scramble down the tree. 70m rope works just gotta do a little funkyness to make it work. WORLD CLASS Routes!!! May 29, 2013
Lotapowder
Sandy
Lotapowder   Sandy
Regardless of the grade, these routes are unique and awesome!! Go get on them. FYI I just did Huecos with a 90m rope and only had about 10 feet of rope left when I reached the ground. It would be a rope stretcher with a 80m rope. May 22, 2012
The new route is called Twins Paradox, a comment on the two possible ways to finish the route. The jury is still out on which way ages you more but I found both very fun. The left branch is lower quality sandy slopers and felt like 12-. The right branch is stellar and unique for the wall as it doesn't have any jugs. It goes at 5.13a but could be harder for shorter folk.

I feel the best part of the route is the last two bolts if you take the right branch. A ground fall would be very difficult as each clipping hold for the first 4 bolts is a huge jug. I felt a minimalist approach was the best for this crag, hence the spaced out bolts that are painted black to blend in to the beautiful black streak the route climbs.

One 80m rope gets you down perfectly, just like Huecos Rancheros and is all I ever take up there as Namaste requires at least a 70m rope as well. Thanks for the feedback, enjoy!!! Feb 14, 2012
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
What is the weather like for this climb in June, July, and August? How about September? Dec 19, 2011
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
I think 100m would be plenty.

As I recall, when I belayed someone on Huecos several years ago, we lowered with a single 70m. I had to climb up to the first bolt (or maybe a little past it) once the rope came tight on me (the belayer), then downclimb. Oct 13, 2011
Joseph M.
Tucson, AZ
Joseph M.   Tucson, AZ
I recently purchased 100 meters of Dynamic rope from Sterling and was wondering if anyone knew if it would be enough to lower off of these climbs. Then I could top rope and clean from the other end. Appreciate the info! Oct 12, 2011
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.12a/b
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.12a/b
I got on the new route about 2 weeks ago....I found it to be about 11+/12-....It is a little heady lead, as you doing solid climbing, well above bolts is super soft sandstone, and gound fall for the first 4 bolts is possible. Alot of the holds were still very fragil due to lack of traffic, but near the top the route almost splits. You can go way left into super sandy easy heucos, or go right through near imposibble crimps (5.13) I did both ways neither is quite fun.

Personally this line is no where near as good as the 3 main climbs, but is a nice diversion. The climb should finish 2 bolts from the anchor. As is you need 14ish draws and 2 ropes to get down. Jun 27, 2009
JoeAllen  
 
The new route right of Huecos was put up by St. George local hard man Chad Perkins. I don't know much else, but it looks hard. It is just as long as Huecos, but climbs through several sections of smaller holds. I haven't been on it myself. Jun 26, 2009
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
There is now a bolted route 5 feet to the right of Huecos Rancheros.

Anyone have any beta? Dec 8, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
desbien: Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

No, the area includes three sport climbs and a few (I'm not sure exactly how many) bolted slab climbs. It is a super cool area so if you're in the area it may be worth it. Keep in mind that it is cold and snowy where these climbs are so usually they're not climbable until June or July. I hiked into this area in late March once to find 20 to 30 feet of snow. I was looking almost eye level at some of the anchors. Dec 10, 2007
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber? Dec 9, 2007
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.12c
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.12c
if you want beta here you go. climb up using big holds all overhanging. this is a high endurance route. be creative with your rests, use knee bars and cram yourself into some bigger huecos. go calm and collected because its a long exhilerating haul. once you hit the third to the last bolt you get to do a v4 boulder move while pumped and about 130 feet in space. left hand sidepull bring feet up and go to a bad 3 finger crease. step up the feet fighting a barn door then move to a high crimper (do not clip here) then gun for the next hold then clip. after that its more great climbing to the anchors. i fell 4-5 times here before i could get it. please replace the top biners with new quicklinks. i wish i had a picture at the top looking down it was quite a view. use 2 ropes to descend. cleaning is laborious. Nov 19, 2007
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.12a/b
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.12a/b
This is one of the most amazing lines I have ever seen or done.....But really, if this was anywhere on the east coast it would be 12a/b no more!! You can get 2 no hands rest through the whole thing...Anyway get on it the crux is the 2nd to last bolt, and is maybe a v2/3 boulder problem. May 25, 2007
Why would someone bolt a route and then threaten to chop them once they became popular? Seems like ya shouldn't have bolted 'em in the first place then, eh? Mar 15, 2007
Josh Janes    
 
While Namaste is probably not really 12a, it is a major sandbag to call Huecos 11d. The crux is a sequential series of crimps that comes after 13 clips. Solid 5.12. Nov 17, 2004
These are incredible sport routes a must do for anyone in the area. The ratings on both are probably high. (Nameste is probably 11c/d and Huecos 11d) Oct 11, 2004