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Areas in South Fork of Taylor

Namaste Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
South Fork 15 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 25

Description

The South Fork of Taylor Creek is one of the most scenic climbing areas in all of Utah. Home to some very well renowned climbs, this less recognized region of Zion Nation Park has a large variety of climbing.

The south fork lies between Paria Point and Beatty Point and contains the largest concentration of routes in Kolob. The climbing here is hit or miss in terms of season, but being at a higher elevation than its neighboring Zion crags, the season tends to extend later into the spring and summer than typical Zion routes. Be prepared for snow if you head here too early.
Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

From the ranger station, drive up the road for approximately 3 miles passing the Taylor's Fork hiking trail. Drive for another mile and locate a parking lot on the right and park. Cross the street and take a trail that heads up the obvious corridor of south fork. The trail is located directly off the bend in the road and before a very sharp turn. Sunlight Buttress and Wind, Sand and Stars can be seen off to the left of the canyon and are helpful markers in locating the trail. Expect about a mile to a mile and a half of hiking and a thirty to forty-five minute approach.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Fork of Taylor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Altered States
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Surfin'
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Center Route
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pulp Friction
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
1/2 Route
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Last Rites
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yahweh
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pins and Needles
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dost Mitra
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Namaste
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hall of Smears
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
"ET" Extremely Tough Slab
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiderfinger
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Huecos Rancheros
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twins Paradox
Sport
Altered States S Fork 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sand Surfin' S Fork 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Center Route S Fork 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Pulp Friction S Fork 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
1/2 Route Namaste Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Last Rites S Fork 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Yahweh S Fork 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pins and Needles S Fork 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dost Mitra Namaste Wall 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Namaste Namaste Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hall of Smears S Fork 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S Fork 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Spiderfinger S Fork 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Huecos Rancheros Namaste Wall 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Twins Paradox Namaste Wall 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Fork of Taylor »

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jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
The information on how to get to this spot is a little vague. Here is the definitive:

The Taylor Creek Trailhead is NOT the way to go. There is a parking spot 1.1 miles PAST the taylor creek trail head on the right side of the road, just before the hairpin turn. That is where you park, then cross the road and follow the trail up the canyon.

Below is the entrance to the trail.

Apr 25, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Ben you are mistaken about the location of twins. You probably didn't see the route between huecos and mitra due to the camo black hangers. For clarification: left to right
Unknown half route- 10+ with 3 bolt 11+ extension
Huecos rancheros 12c
Twins paradox 13a/12-. Black hangers
Dost mitra 11a.
Namaste 12a
Abandoned project with a few bolts and ratty slings in super choss rock
Around corner is a chopped route with a lone drilled angle that leads to an arching crack with anchors Apr 21, 2015
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
The admins of this area and its routes need to do some updating on the route descriptions with heavy focus on the locations of each of the routes. I guess we can no longer say that Namaste is the third route from the left.

I was just at the Namaste Wall today (Nov 29, 2013) and thought I had hopped on Namaste. Once I returned home, I realized that I actually climbed Dost Mitra, a route that sits between Huecos Rancheros and Namaste.

From what I could see, there are 5 bolted routes on the Namaste Wall. After glancing at the latest version of Rock Climbing Utah and scouring through Mountain Project, I have decided that the routes are as follows, from left to right: Unknown 5.10, Huecos Rancheros 5.12c, Dost Mitra 5.11a/b, Namaste 5.12a, and Unknown Project (possibly named Twins Paradox 5.13a on Mountain Project and I assume a typo states that it sits between Huecos Rancheros and Dost Mitra).

Be aware, the latest version of Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green mentions Dost Mitra and Twins Paradox in the opening paragraph for the Namaste Wall, but the topo and listed routes only include the Unkown 5.10, Huecos Rancheros, and Namaste. Also note that the line representing Namaste on the topo/photo is actually overlaid on Dost Mitra. Nov 29, 2013
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This is quite possibly the most serene and wonderful sport climbing area I've ever been to. We had it to ourselves on a stormy holiday weekend. Wonderful, wonderful place. Sep 4, 2013

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