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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Bernie Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Elevation: 4,816 ft
GPS: 37.274, -112.944 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 65,918 total · 331/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 2, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Cerberus Gendarme formation is on the east side of Zion Canyon - no need to cross the river!

The main attraction is the 8-pitch Touchstone Wall (IV 5.9 C2), a relatively short, but slightly harder wall in comparison to Moonlight Buttress. The route is a good choice for a first big wall venture, as the route goes straight up and retreat, if necessary, is straightforward (as opposed to Spaceshot past pitch 4).

Getting There

Take the shuttle to the Big Bend stop (as for Prodigal Sun, Moonlight Buttress). The Cerberus Gendarme lies directly across the river from Moonlight Buttress. From the shuttle stop, backtrack the road for a couple hundred yards to the climbers' access trail. Look for the posted trail markers and please use them as to prevent unnecessary erosion! Approach time: 5 minutes.

16 Total Climbs

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Location: Cerberus Gendarme Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cerberus Gendarme

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 116
Cave Route
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
 177
Touchstone Wall
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 101
Squeeze Play
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
Tales of Flails
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Cynthia's Hand Job
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 149
Cherry Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 47
The Fat Hedral
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 58
Scarlet Begonias
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
Mean High Tide
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 122
Fails of Power
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 31
Intruder
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 15
Electrica
Trad, Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
Dire Wolf
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Route
 116
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Touchstone Wall
 177
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 Trad, Aid 8 pitches
Squeeze Play
 101
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tales of Flails
 50
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cynthia's Hand Job
 40
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cherry Crack
 149
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Fat Hedral
 47
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Scarlet Begonias
 58
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mean High Tide
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 5 pitches
Fails of Power
 122
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Intruder
 31
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Electrica
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport
Dire Wolf
 27
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Cerberus Gendarme »

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Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
My partner and I climbed a couple of the base routes on Cerberus a few days ago. We felt that they were of very high quality. We climbed Cherry Crack to the first anchor and Fails of Power to it's first anchor. Both routes were great and the other lines in this area look awesome too. If you have a little extra time in the park I would highly suggest getting on some of these lines. May 25, 2005
There is an access trail that is only 50 paces, not several hundred yards from the shuttle stop. The access sign is not visible from the road, but a short way in. The use trail splits there. Go left for Cave Route and No Holds Barred. Further down the road (a few hundred yards), there is an access sign at the road. There is a maze of use trails there and much erosion. For these routes, it is probably better to use the first trail and go right at the split. Jun 9, 2009
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
can anyone comment on sun at this time( mid-winter) ? when does it come and go? trying to plan a trip for next week and wondering...


thanks!


jon Jan 9, 2012
Jon Melly
Washington, District of Columb
Jon Melly   Washington, District of Columb
I left my la sportiva boots next to the big tree near the start of 5.7 sport pitch on touchstone. rapped right past them after going to the summit. if you climb it please bring them down i will reward you. Contact info. text me JP (571) 224-3101 i will be in zion until mid Feb and am also looking I left my la sportiva boots next to the big tree near the start of 5.7 sport pitch on touchstone. rapped right past them after going to the summit. if you climb it please bring them down i will reward you. Contact info. "JP" (571) 224-3101 i will be in zion until mid Feb and am also looking for partners. Jan 13, 2018

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