Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ron Olevsky 1988
Page Views: 37,607 total · 173/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Oct 14, 2002 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is similar to Epinephrine at Red Rock, but a little wilder and not as good.The route follows a large, left-facing corner system on the left side of The Spearhead. It is easily scoped from the vicinity of the Zion Lodge.Start at a right-angling ramp system below the main corner. As of this writing there is a fixed rope midway up the ramp.P1 (4th class, 200+') Clamber up the ramp to a large ledge. The ledge contains a tree with rap slings. Above the ledge is a Red Rocks-like face with some drilled angles.P2 (5.9 sandbag, 60') My partner and I thought this was the best and hardest pitch on the climb. Follow the drilled angles to a ledge.P3 (5.8, 60') Follow a right-facing chimney/corner to a bushy ledge. This pitch is sensibly combined with the previous. Once the entire party is at the ledge, follow a vague trail clockwise about 50' through the bushes and establish a new belay at the base of the main wall.P4 (5.10, 50-200') Step right a few feet and ascend a groove which eventually reaches the corner. The groove is allegedly the crux of the entire climb.P5-P8 or P9. Continue up the corner which contains several fixed belay/rap stations and the occasional drilled angle. Belay as appropriate. It is possible to link pitches in this section.The corner also contains some good ledges but alas, these aren't always where the good anchors are. The lower part of the corner contains a lot of 5.8 and easier chimneying; the upper part mostly 5.9-ish hands/stemming.Last Pitch (5.9 R ,120') From the slings at the top of the corner move the belay up a bushy ramp for about 30' and climb a 5" layback crack system that slims to hands (5.9). The crack eases into deteriorated blocks to a large roof. Pass an interesting hueco around the right side of the roof and continue up a 5.8 corner with scant pro. Use caution on the brittle rock. Top out the sub-summit and build a gear anchor.

Protection

  • One each 1-7 Rock
  • One each green & yellow Alien
  • Two each #1-#3.5 Friend
  • One each #4 Camalot

Depending on your comfort level in chimneys, you may want more wide gear (e.g. #4.5 and/or #5 Camalots).

Approach

See the approach directions for Spearhead.

Descent

Rap the route.Be careful—there are several dead ropes in the depths of the chimneys. If you don't get greedy on the descent, you can pretty much use only rap stations that keep you out of the rope-eating chimneys.Our rope got stuck on the last rappel (the 4th class pitch) when the knot got caught at the lip.If rappelling from the summit, bolts can be found 50' climber's left of the top out. One 70m diagonal rappel can get you down to the base of the final pitch, from there you'll need to walk back down to the next anchor. This can be avoided by rappelling with to ropes.

Photos