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Routes in Moonlight Buttress

Looney Tunes 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Lunar Ecstasy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Moonlight Buttress (Free), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sheer Lunacy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
Sheer Lunacy (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Description

Moonlight Buttress is the obvious buttress on the left just after Angel's Landing. It resembles a huge pillar resting against the wall. The wall faces almost due east.

The most common route on the wall is the The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid) that takes a line straight up the middle (the Grand Dihedral is obvious from the road).

At the base, be careful as the 3rd class ledges are easy to climb on but a tumble down could be serious.

There is a ledge after P5 of the Lowe/Weiss route that makes a great bivy if you have a portaledge. The descent is a casual hike down a paved path. Once you top out, hike straight back and you cannot miss the path. The path is most exciting (yes, seriously) path I have ever been on. Try to save some daylight to enjoy the hike down. It would be worthy of hiking by itself. The descent is about 3 miles down.

—Casey Bernal
Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

You can take the shuttle to the Big Bend stop (same as Prodigal Sun), or if you have a cool driver they will drop you off right in front of the trailhead. From the shuttle stop, jog up the road about 100 yards to the trailhead. There are trail markers posted to follow. To cross the creek, look for a wide area with islands, and you can cross with only getting your ankles wet. The approach takes maybe 30 minutes.

Descent

The Angel's Landing trail.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moonlight Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
No. See here: nps.gov/zion/learn/news/cli… Mar 5, 2016
Is moonlight buttress part of the the seasonal closure for nesting Peregrine Falcons in Zion National Park? Mar 4, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I wrote a trip report from this route 5 years ago that can be found at naclassics.com/climbs/moonl… The facts stated therein hold. The opinions expressed about certain things may have expired. May 20, 2003

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