Type: Aid, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade V
FA: Ron Olevsky
Page Views: 58,886 total · 279/month
Shared By: Aaron Shupp on May 18, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1/P2 (C1, 160') The first bolt is about nine feet off the ground (have your buddy give you a boost to clip it). The first two pitches can be combined.

P3 (~70') Gain a comfortable ledge.

P4 (C2) Attack the Wrinkles which calls for a series of pendulums (reach right) and tension traverses to the left. When good placements run out move left.

P5 (C1) Climbs through the arch roof via a nice crack.

P6 (C1) Takes a crack to a short bolt ladder.

P7 (C2) Takes a left-facing corner up a few trickier moves to a decent stance for the last aid pitch.

P8 Continues up the corner system and then makes a clever pendulum out left to gain access to another corner. (Fixed point) This pitch ends on a big, dirty, sandy, down sloping ledge (be extremely careful of the loose stuff here).

P9 (5.5) Free climbs a low-angle chimney filled with loose debris to a ridiculously crappy chute filled with loose sand, rock, and plant material. After suffering through this mess, you arrive at a good trees to belay from.

A few recommendations:

1. Bring a belay seat as the stances are not always very comfortable.

2. Do not haul if you can help it. If you think you'll take more than one day, fix the first two or three pitches.

Protection

This route is all clean. No hammer is necessary. Bring a full clean aid rack including: cams up to 3" and many smaller sizes (especially small aliens and TCU's), 2 sets of nuts down to RP sizes are essential (offsets are really helpful), a few rivet hangers are nice, and whatever you do DO NOT FORGET A HOOK. There are some moves that can only be done with a hook. Also, have about 25 to 35 spare biners as some of the pitches can be long.

Approach

Approach the route from the climbers' trail that ascends to the base of the northeast face of Angel's Landing. Near the top of the wall, there is a large, A-shaped, in-cut section of desert varnish. The route begins right off of the trail under a prominent roof.

Photos