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Routes in Angel's Landing

Days of No Future T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A4-
Lowe Route A2
Lucifer's Ladder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Mostly American 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Northeast Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Prodigal Sun 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
South East Butress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
South of Heaven 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4+
Type: Aid, 1200 ft, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Brian Bird, Eric Draper, Nate Brown, John Sedon--the team Kiwi May 2001
Page Views: 1,913 total, 19/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Jul 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Obscure route on the left side of the face. We had so much stuff with us, we called our rig the "mongolian chicken bus". It was a blast, good times. I recall that Doug Heinrich had given Bird and Draper some prototype big peckers and we were so psyched. We were calling them African Peckers. I don't think BD could market them with that name. Kind of not PC...

Location

The route shares the first two or three pitches with Swiss American and then breaks left through steep glorious aid crack systems. It goes through the right arc of the "cyclops eye" on the face and then through the "batwinger roof" and ending in the huge dihedrals at upper left edge of the cilff. We could have nailed the Cyclops Eye but drilled to preserve the feature. We were worried that we would "dinner plate" the feature--visible to the eye from the road=bad juju...

Protection

pins, cams, nuts, ropes...

Photos

Nate Brown
Wilson, Wy
 
Nate Brown   Wilson, Wy
 
Still unrepeated??? Mar 10, 2010