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Routes in Angel's Landing

Days of No Future T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A4-
Lowe Route A2
Lucifer's Ladder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Mostly American 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Northeast Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Prodigal Sun 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
South East Butress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
South of Heaven 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4+
Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 8 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Klaus Shock and Geoff Trump 1998
Page Views: 4,709 total, 49/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Jan 7, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Perhaps the proudest aid route on the face. Hard off the deck, so thin you can't see the thing until you are on the route. Lots of beaking, lots of natural stretches of hooking, hard desert-alpine free climbing at the top. Another futuristic Klaus Route. Don't make this your first nailing route.

Location

The route starts in the next crack lookers left of Angel Hair and goes plumb-line to the top.

Protection

Full Aid rack, extra beaks, two sets of all hooks, big huevos. Please note: the A3+ rating relates to fall/injury potential and not to the difficulty. Furthermore, in keeping with Zion tradition, A3+ here is likely to be more severe than routes of the grade on the Captain.

Photos

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Nate Brown
Wilson, Wy
 
Nate Brown   Wilson, Wy
 
History Tidbits:

On the FA: Klaus dropped the nailinig rack and they tied all thier ropes, slings, aiders and tat together to get it back. They immediatly went back up and carried on.

On our ascent: John Selove rode a human-sized block out of the first pitch. Woah! We called the bivi ledge atop pitch 6 "Satan's Sundeck". Jan 7, 2010