Type: Aid, 1200 ft, 12 pitches
FA: Jeff Lowe and partner.
Page Views: 11,156 total · 57/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 8, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This route ascends the middle (guts) of Angel's Landing. Look for a topo in the visitors center.

No matter what, make sure you allow time for the ending two pitches. Everybody that I've talked to about this route, including myself, says that they take longer than one would think. It's not simple scrambling, especially if you have a pig.

Awesome route, with great exposure, with an enormous array of climbing. Very adventurous.



Standard Zion rack, cam hook, an angle or two, a few long Lost Arrows.


Let's see, my friend jason (dirty sanchez) and i did this route last weekend (03/21/03). Here's what I can say about it:

1. the first 4 pitches are fun. we did them and then fixed the first aid pitch. we ended up fixing 3 ropes and bailing to the pizza and noodle that night.2. day 2 we jugged our lines and then blasted through the rest of the route. the second aid pitch (5) would be a rad free line. 3. the 5.10 roof on pitch 8 is a mandatory free move. it's like 10-. sporty.4. the upper two pitches are hilarious. 5.2-5.5. RIGHT. get ready for a 5.9 hand crack at the top. stay right on the arete always!5. do it in two days. fix on day and 1 and blast day 2.6. hauling would royally suck on this route. we hand over hand hauled a speed bag up the aid pitches and jugged with it on the low angle business up high.7. it's LONG!!!! well, for zion.

you can do some serious heckling from this route to your friends on other lines. that was the best part of it. i suppose you can do that from most of the routes in zion. ah, utah. Mar 25, 2003
Ditto on the last pitches, they were hienous. The route as a whole was really good. Long?Maybe compared to most of the routes in the main canyon in Zion, but there are alot of routes bigger than this in the park. It is definitely a step up from moonlight or prodigal but just look at the wall, it goes right up the middle yo. Good call on not hauling, it sucks on the last bit and the first bit, but you do miss out on a really nice bivy in the middle of the route. Be a solid 5.10 climber and you'll send this route no problem, if your not it will be hienous. Apr 2, 2003
we actually used 4 ropes to fix to the top of the first aid pitch. i had said 3 before. sorry. Apr 14, 2003
Did this route 4-20-03. ATTENTION: Splitter Gear 2-cams turn the "C3+" crux into C1+, no joke. I had a double set from purple to yellow (3 sizes from green to red alien more or less) and I back-cleaned every piece through the overhanging left-leaning crux for about 20 feet because I was leap frogging the 2-cams and every one was BOMBER! A couple HB offsets and camhooks, and the pitch is over. I was more scared on the C2 section in the beginning of the 5th pitch (actually blew a camhook there). DO NOT NAIL THIS ROUTE!!! This route is at least a full clean grade easier than Desert Shield. This route can now be added to the list of easy clean routes in the main valley. Apr 28, 2003

5.10 C2 (no nailing) Apr 28, 2003
How is the bivy on top of pitch four? on pitch seven? Ledges or just good anchors to hang a ledge at? Thanks.

C Sep 30, 2004
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
There is a nice ledge on the top of pitch 4 that would probably be suitable for sleeping w/o a portaledge. There's also a good anchor for portaledges. The ledge on the top of pitch 7 might work, but I remember it being rather small for sleeping. I think the anchor was really solid on P7 for portaledges. I believe this is a great route to fix and blast because there are numerous sections, especially the top, that would suck for hauling. Hence, I have heard people talk about rapping the route rather than finishing via the Exit Gully. With this method you miss the exciting traverse into the "gully" but avoid the loose mess of the last pitches. Check out the topos in the Visitor Center for information on the last pitches. We neglected to do so and were thoroughly confused by what we expected to be straightforward 5.2 and 5.5 pitches in the "Exit Gully." Oct 4, 2004
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Anyone climbed this route recently?

The topo at the Visitor Center shows it as C2 now. I'm particularly looking for updated rack information?


John Apr 29, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO

I climbed the Lowe Route four years ago, so not real recent, but I doubt that it has changed significantly since then. When I did it, our topo said C3+. I believe people are giving it a C2 rating because if you have certain gear, it's probably significantly easier. The crux pitch involves moving left through some "roofs" where there are some horribly flared pin scars. I used offset Aliens and they worked wonders. Made it feel C1. I know other people have used small tri-cams. Above the roofs, it's a thin crack, very reminiscent of the Desert Shield headwall cracks. Takes a bunch of thin, offset wires. We brought the recommended rack from bigwall.comhttp://www.bigwall.com/allowe.html but only had about a 3/4 set of offset brass nuts. We also brought Ball-Nuts, small tri-cams, a couple of hooks, and we didn't bring any cam hooks. Our rack was perfect, except that if we had it, we would have brought 2 or 3 sets of small brass nuts.

Have fun and enjoy the adventure. Apr 30, 2008
A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
A. Wolaver   Golden, CO
I think it's best not to use cam hooks in sandstone, especially Navajo. Let's preserve this beautiful rout for future generations. Nov 26, 2010
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Mike Anderson freed it, with a 3 pitch variation, at 5.13a. Apr 5, 2014
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
More than any other that I have done, this route gives you a taste of the full spectrum of Zion climbing. A true classic! Jun 7, 2014