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Routes in Moonlight Buttress

Looney Tunes 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Lunar Ecstasy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Moonlight Buttress (Free), The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sheer Lunacy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
Sheer Lunacy (Free) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Aid, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mark Folkerson and Nate Brown 11/00
Page Views: 2,133 total, 21/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

All 4 headwall pitches are stretcher 60m leads. Some cool mandatory free on pitch 2, in a chimney over a slab. Good beaking on a few pitches, maybe only one lead bolt on the route. Good two bolt anchors with 4 inch bolts. This route is a good intro to harder nailing in Zion. Maybe do this one before strapping in for a bigger one elsewhere.

Location

Vertical crack system 50' right of Sheer Lunacy. Approach as for Lunar X and Sheer Lunacy

Protection

beaks to big ones

Photos

EJN
EJN  
Bring a ledge. Aug 30, 2016