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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Bernie Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Feiges, Marius Marstad. March 1980
Page Views: 7,555 total · 48/month
Shared By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006 with updates from bill feiges
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This crack is the prominent corner to the left of Scarlet Begonias. Most folks just climb to the chain anchors just above the flake, making the climb a 5.10b. The 5.11c comes past the first set of anchors and follows a finger crack over a small roof about 50 ft further.

It is fantastic! Perfect hands in the corner and then pulling the flake is a tad exposed but very fun. Very sustained classic crack climbing! Great route!

Note that all anchors were placed on lead.

Protection

Mostly #1s and #2s all the way. A .75 is handy above the flake. A #3 may fit just below the flake too. Smaller gear will be necessary if you climb the small section. Watch your rope drag; it's a little tricky. A few slings could be helpful. Two bomber bolt anchors with chains are at the top of both pitches.

Photos

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
after the first set of anchors you will need (2) .75, .5, and a .4
to get you to the second set of anchors..

Earlier this summer I blew it clipping the 2nd anchor. my last piece (.4) just after the 2nd roof blew out some rock, so now it may be easier clipping the anchor because you now have a foot to tiptoe on(its still the crux!)....needless to say it was a fun, safe, scary, clean whipper Apr 23, 2007
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
I think it should be clarified that they're talking #2 camalots. If we're talking Friends, 2-1/2 are pretty mandatory. #2s are too small and #3s require some serious cramming. Jun 5, 2008
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
fun climb- 2 camalots protect the first pitch to the roof. I don't think 1 camalots are neccesary. After the roof you could place some 1 camalots in pods- but you'll probably want you hands in there. Otherwise they (1 camalots) are too tight- 2 friends are best. Take a BD .3 for below the upper anchor. Nov 10, 2008
B Roth
st george, ut
B Roth   st george, ut
most folks layback the flake (or bulge) which feels exposed, however it's pretty easy to keep jamming it which doesn't feel exposed at all. Apr 26, 2009
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Pulling the roof is way harder than the roof on Shunes. Oct 7, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11+
^^^^ I'll second that. Shune's is more like 11b. This...is solid for the grade and maybe even harder. Oct 7, 2014
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
 
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
 
I'd give this 11+ (never believed in a/b/c/d ratings for trad climbs below 5.12) and that is just to pull the roof and get to the anchors. You will definitely think you are at IC on this one.....oh yeah......except for the 1,000 times better view! Mar 25, 2015
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
I'm not very good at ringlocks, so I brought 3 BD .75s. I was glad to have them. From under the roof it's just a few strenuous pulls with great gear. Clipping the chains is pretty cruxy. Fantastic climb!! So worth going to the second anchor. Mar 25, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
This route would get 4 stars at any cragging area. Pulling the upper roof sure feels like 11+ if your fingers are not .5 size. Even though I got a no-hands rest below the roof, I still got terminally pumped cranking on very rattly ringlocks with no feet and popped off right before getting both feet well situated on the upper headwall. One yellow alien/yellow metolius piece is all I had the juice to fire in through the thin fingers above the ringlocks. Jan 2, 2017

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