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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Drew Bedford
Page Views: 3,886 total, 35/month
Shared By: Gaar on Dec 17, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

If your looking to break into the 5.12 trad range this is it.. Climb easy and fun 5.10- then do a 10ft boulder problem, to easy 5.10- to the chains.

In the thin section you get some foot chips and 2 okayish crimps on the right wall. Be sure not to place gear in your finger locks in the crack

Location

5 ft right of Electra, and 30ft left of Cherry

Protection

Single set Smallest thing you own through #3 camolot.. The crux has great gear, if you dont mind climbing over a BD .1

You will need at least 2 #3 cams for the run to the anchors

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Fun, technical stemming through the crux. It isn't getting any easier due to the fragile nature of the rock. Bringing 2 #3s for the top is a safe bet. I wish I had. Jan 2, 2017
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.12-
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.12-
Totally awesome rock climb - fantastic movement, great protection, and an awesome, technical crux.

Gear beta: Basically echoing what everyone else here said, brought a single #4 to protect the relatively easy face climbing out of the wide-looking pod into the section below the crux. Thin thin cams for the crux, and then hero climbing on #3 BD cams to the top.

The fixed 'biner on the anchor is starting to show some signs of wear, so if someone gets up there before me, throw a new one on, or on my next visit I'll throw some hooks or a new biner on it. May not be for a while, though... Mar 10, 2014
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
5.12-
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
5.12-
blue aliens/ green C3's protect the crux well. the crux is awesome! get after it! Mar 23, 2010