Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Dunn
Page Views: 11,372 total · 72/month
Shared By: EricD on Jan 21, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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118 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Route furthest to the left on Gendarme. Starts off as an awkward face climb, protectable with the large crack. Some mantles and edges lead to a beautiful hand crack in a dihedral. Another mantle leads to chains and a cave. This route can also be top-roped by walking through the cave from behind the formation.

Protection

Big stuff (#4, #3 BD cams) to start and a couple #2s for the hand crack. Something small can be useful at the top. Chain anchors.
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
 
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
 
The flakes to the right offer a nice variation (5.8ish) to the start. Apr 11, 2006
George Vigeon
Bend, OR
George Vigeon   Bend, OR
Kinda goofy but fun. A Camalot 4 for the first pod is optional and after that #2, 3, .75, and a .4 right before the chains. Rap the route or walk off into the cave, part of the charm of the route. Jun 6, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
I agree the #4 is optional but you will need to run out about 15-17' before you place your first piece. Jun 10, 2008
Nate Brown
Wilson, Wy
Nate Brown   Wilson, Wy
this route rules. Don't overlook the second pitch. one of the only 5.8 roofs in Zion! also, an alternate start to Mean High Tide. Clint Eastwood rules. Aug 6, 2009
Jared R
 
Jared R  
 
Fun route. There are some really cool and different moves on this route that make it really fun. The jams are good and the mantels are fun. I recommend doing it.
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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.7+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.7+
5.7++++++ but totally fun. I dropped a #5 camalot in at the bottom. Apr 5, 2010
Dann R
Hermosa Beach, ca
Dann R   Hermosa Beach, ca
I agree. The first half is probably 5.6. Then, at the top half before chains, it's a possible 5.8. Jul 9, 2013
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.9
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
  5.9
If this is 5.7, Ashtar Command must be 5.6

I thought it was pretty cool... was expecting a sandbag from the guidebook description... and it definitely did not disappoint! Nov 9, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
I thought this route was very underrated. Great rock quality, fun moves and position. Just don't hop on it if you're a 5.7 leader. Jan 19, 2015
This route is definitely not 5.7. I'd call it solid 5.8; and strenuous at that. Don't get me wrong, it's fun and is a great route to practice different crack techniques on, but the rating is a bit sandbagged. Apr 18, 2018