Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Randy Aton
Page Views: 6,656 total · 65/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Nov 27, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This fun route is a great way to finish up a day of cragging. It sees less action than the routes around the corner.

The first pitch is varied and ends at a bolted rap station on the edge of a brushy terrace.

The second pitch climbs the beautiful open book above. Mostly hands with some variety including a fist/OW section. It ends at a bolted rap station.

Rap the route with two 60m ropes or one 70m.

Location

From the paved pullout just up canyon from Big Bend follow a faint trail up to the cliff. The second pitch dihedral is a good landmark.

Protection

Doubles to #1 C4, at least four each of #2 and #3, one #4.

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Photos

We found the route tricky to find based on the slim description/no pic of the first pitch, so here you go!
We found the route tricky to find based on the…
 3
Looking down P2. So good!
Looking down P2. So good!
 6
Up-close shot of P1
Up-close shot of P1
 2
A 70m with stretch was barely long enough for the 2nd pitch. Toprope for proof.
A 70m with stretch was barely long enough for t…
 0

5 Comments

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Ryan Hill
Oakland, CA
  5.10
Ryan Hill   Oakland, CA
  5.10
Beautiful second pitch, less aesthetic first pitch, but some fun moves. Not much of a trail to the base of this route, but the route itself is clear of loose rock.

I'd suggest a minimum of 4 #2s and 4 #3s for this route. It is a 100+ foot pitch and you'll place the #4 early on (a #5 is optional and a 2nd #4 wouldn't hurt if you are thin in the 2-3" cam size). With 4 X #2,#3 I had placements spaced a bit further out than I would have liked. Still, it went and the gear was good, so perhaps I'm just scared. I would say the suggested rack would get most folks a little nervous.

Great way to end the day at Big Bend. Mar 2, 2013
Gargano
Arizona
 
Gargano   Arizona
 
One 70m will get you down in two raps. Apr 2, 2013
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
 
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
 
Loved this route. The first pitch is much better than it looks from the road. The 2nd pitch is amazing. Take a #4 and #5 camalot for the short o/w section. I took 4x #2s and that seemed ok. FYI, if your partner wants a gear anchor at the base of P2 (it's just a little exposed) then you will need another #4 and #5 camalot. Mar 25, 2015
Ryan Arnold
  5.10c
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10c
Incredible 2nd pitch. About as hard as Supercrack, but a bit longer, with sharper edges, and heavier on the #2 camalots. If you want to protect every 10 feet bring at least six #2, plus some #3-4. Apr 20, 2015
Courtney Pace
Sandy
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Just a couple notes. You have to hike through the bushes between pitches 1 and 2. And you'll want to belay up in the bushes a little bit off a slung tree or a nice big boulder with some gear options for an anchor. Mostly #2 camalots on this bad boy. At least 6. I also used 5 #2's on pitch 1. Really good route! Nov 27, 2016