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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Randy Aton
Page Views: 5,325 total, 62/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Nov 27, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This fun route is a great way to finish up a day of cragging. It sees less action than the routes around the corner.

The first pitch is varied and ends at a bolted rap station on the edge of a brushy terrace.

The second pitch climbs the beautiful open book above. Mostly hands with some variety including a fist/OW section. It ends at a bolted rap station.

Rap the route with two 60m ropes or one 70m.

Location

From the paved pullout just up canyon from Big Bend follow a faint trail up to the cliff. The second pitch dihedral is a good landmark.

Protection

Doubles to #1 C4, at least four each of #2 and #3, one #4.

Photos

Courtney Pace   Sandy
Just a couple notes. You have to hike through the bushes between pitches 1 and 2. And you'll want to belay up in the bushes a little bit off a slung tree or a nice big boulder with some gear options for an anchor. Mostly #2 camalots on this bad boy. At least 6. I also used 5 #2's on pitch 1. Really good route! Nov 27, 2016
Ryan Arnold
  5.10c
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10c
Incredible 2nd pitch. About as hard as Supercrack, but a bit longer, with sharper edges, and heavier on the #2 camalots. If you want to protect every 10 feet bring at least six #2, plus some #3-4. Apr 20, 2015
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
 
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
 
Loved this route. The first pitch is much better than it looks from the road. The 2nd pitch is amazing. Take a #4 and #5 camalot for the short o/w section. I took 4x #2s and that seemed ok. FYI, if your partner wants a gear anchor at the base of P2 (it's just a little exposed) then you will need another #4 and #5 camalot. Mar 25, 2015
Gargano
Oakland, CA
 
Gargano   Oakland, CA
 
One 70m will get you down in two raps. Apr 2, 2013
Ryan Hill
Oakland, CA
  5.10
Ryan Hill   Oakland, CA
  5.10
Beautiful second pitch, less aesthetic first pitch, but some fun moves. Not much of a trail to the base of this route, but the route itself is clear of loose rock.

I'd suggest a minimum of 4 #2s and 4 #3s for this route. It is a 100+ foot pitch and you'll place the #4 early on (a #5 is optional and a 2nd #4 wouldn't hurt if you are thin in the 2-3" cam size). With 4 X #2,#3 I had placements spaced a bit further out than I would have liked. Still, it went and the gear was good, so perhaps I'm just scared. I would say the suggested rack would get most folks a little nervous.

Great way to end the day at Big Bend. Mar 2, 2013