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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: J. Tainio, B. Stolp - June 24, 1981
Page Views: 4,371 total, 36/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I've always found this route to have fun, varied climbing and at a moderate grade. There's good climbing in the big chimney via a variety of jams with good feet and ample gear. Going to the first set of anchors is most popular, at 5.9 but you can continue to a second set of anchors at 5.10. A few bolts protect the top of this pitch and it's 130 feet to the upper anchors.

Location

This route climbs the crack system in the large chimney left of Conrad Anker's bolted 5.11+ face, Electrica, which is 30-40 feet left of Cherry Crack.

Protection

Double set of cams to gold Camalot with singles in the smallest sizes. Two ropes if going to the high anchor.

Photos

Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
Jer Alz hope this helps.

1. It's a trad route.
2. It states the protection needed for the route "Double set of cams to gold Camalot with singles in the smallest sizes"
3. It also states " A few bolts protect the top of this pitch and it's 130 feet to the upper anchors",
4. It's a trad route.

:) Jul 28, 2015
Jeremy Almond
Las Vegas
Jeremy Almond   Las Vegas
Does the first pitch require trad gear? Jul 28, 2015
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
 
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
 
Fun climb. Much better than it looks. Mar 25, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
The 2nd pitch requires thin gear, you may want doubles of finger size and smaller. Dec 1, 2014
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
the pitch to the first anchors goes at really fun 5.9 Mar 23, 2010