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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Bernie Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,745 total · 18/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crack (up the dihedral) varies a lot on this route. There are numerous faceholds and stemming is the key. Also, have fun encountering the few, short, offwidth pods. This seeems to be standard in Zion. The last 15 foot section climbs a thin hands crack.

Location

The far left of the 3 grouped right facing dihedrals. Roughly 50 yards left of Cherry Crack.

From left to right: The Fat Hedral, Fails of Power, Scarlet Begonias.

Protection

Two of each from fingers to hands. You may want to triple up in the thin hands (.75 and 1 Camalots) sizes. A 4.5 (old style) Camalot might give you peace of mind.

Photos

S. O.
logan,ut
 
S. O.   logan,ut
 
Not as bad as it looks. The crux is NOT the offwidth. Take extra .75 camalots. A bit harder than I thought it would be as my partner told me it was 5.8. Funner than it looks. Jan 13, 2008
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Love this route...I've found it exciting every time. For me, the second OW section is the crux, which uses a wild country #5 to protect. The stemming and face holds really bring this route together, just when you think you can't go up any more you find a feature on the wall behind you. May 5, 2009
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
  5.10+
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
  5.10+
I agree, this is a great climb! Lots of variety in crack size and moves. Mar 25, 2015
M HawkMan  
 
This route is badass. Everything from tips to OW and some crazy cool stemming too.

Bring a BD #5 and save it for the OW section before the thin hands near the top. Feb 7, 2017

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