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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: FAJoe French and Brody Greer, FFA Joe French Dan Carson and Nate Brown
Page Views: 2,591 total, 25/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route is on the prow of the tower on the very left edge of the whole Cerberus Gendarmes. You can't help but notice the banana shaped chimney splitting the arete of this tower from the Angels View lot. This may have been done prior to Joe and Brody, or at least attemted as evidenced by old crappy fixed pro on the first pitch and a half. Joe and Brody found no anchors on the tower summit. Joe and Brody put some bolts next to the hard offwidth which makes the pitch less intimidating. Pitch 4 has a bouldery crux. Pitch 5 is super cool.

Protection

You'll know when you see it.
Cha Tate
Saint George, UT
  5.11- PG13
Cha Tate   Saint George, UT
  5.11- PG13
5/5 stars. Fun, varied climbing. Really loved this climb, classic Zion everything. Beware the sandy boulder move at the start of pitch 5. Protects well with a yellow or orange metolius Camelot. The Banana pitch was awesome despite having no protection until the top of the banana, bring a 6 Camelot if you want to protect. I would do this climb again, absolutely. Reverse leads. If you love offwidths its a must do. Aug 14, 2017
MaryH.
Carbondale, CO
5.11
MaryH.   Carbondale, CO
5.11
Excellent adventure! Crisp rock & not too chalked up- the 3rd & 4th pitches are amazing. I recommend a #6 cam for the Banana pitch- you can place it about 50' up the pitch, & a couple 3's for the traverse. I started up the "5.9 blocks" & was a bit concerned about the several microwave sized loose blocks I was wiggling... I down climbed & there is an alternate traverse option from the white, sandy ledge below, which takes you to the second rappel anchor. Spicy traverse leads to an early exit if you wish to avoid the loose blocks. Awesome route, however! Apr 21, 2013
eric schweitzer
Bend, Oregon
eric schweitzer   Bend, Oregon
great route. the pitch after the "bannana" has a 200 pound plus loose block 3/4 of the way up that would probobly miss your belayer, but might take the leader for the ride of his life or end up hitting somebody cragging far below. fyi Nov 8, 2012
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
The Banana was my favorite part. All you need is an old pair of jeans, and a good sense of humor. ( a big bro and a long sling doesnt hurt though ) Popping out the top into the fist crack traverse is just good times. Jun 20, 2011
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
  5.10+
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
  5.10+
great shady route! Possible to link pitches 2 and 3, which also gives you a better belay stance, with a 70m.

P5 has two options right off the belay, either the more direct line which is a bit sandy but no harder than 5.10- or the right fist crack, which we didn't do, but might be a touch harder than 5.10+.

Rapping with 2 70m ropes: double rope rap, double rope rap (to the top of P1), single rope rap to the ground!

we brought doubles from tips to #3 camalot and a single old #4 camalot and a single old #5 camalot. I would bring a new #6 for the chimney pitch next time.

I thought the climbing on this was pretty clean and fun, but for the banana chimney pitch you do have to get 'blue-collar' with it.

all in all a great shady grade II. May 16, 2011
brianadvenures
slc
  5.10+ PG13
brianadvenures   slc
  5.10+ PG13
Come on Brandon, you know it wasn't that bad. However, I would say the crux was the 'bannana' pitch (that I did not lead but had no pro for us) and not the boulder crux shown in the book. Overall though had an excellent time, would highly recommend this climb. Nov 20, 2010
B Roth
st george, ut
  5.11 PG13
B Roth   st george, ut
  5.11 PG13
The whole time I kept thinking, iron messiah. It's a bit harder, and the rocks a little looser, and in general more fun. I'm not interested in climbing this thing again, however it's worth it for the summit. I'd advise you bring some extra webbing and some rap rings to augment/replace anything from sun wear. Mar 8, 2010