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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,314 total, 11/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb the open-book corner before traversing right underneath the roof on heucos, to the anchor up and right. The corner is pretty awkward and we found it to be rather dirty because it doesn't seem to get done as much.

An enjoyable climb but not as classic as the other pure splitters at the base of the Cerberus Gendarme.

Location

Right of Intruder is the Aton/Allison/Stern route, in the more jumbled mess of sandstone. Right of that is a clean looking open-book corner capped by a roof. That's Flip of a Coin; it's maybe 75 feet right of Intruder.

Protection

A selection of cams with nothing bigger than a gold Camalot (I think).

Photos

mpech  
pretty fun climb, though a bit sandy. Feels almost like a yosemite climb-- lots of chimney/arm-bar on this one. Feb 7, 2017
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
The guidebook gives this an 11-, which I would agree with. The gear I would take is: 2 x #0.4/0.5, 3 or 4 x #0.75/1, 2 x #2and 1 x #3 (these are BD camalots sizes). I even placed a nice #4 early on, but it's not necessary. Overall, I thought this was a really good climb. Apr 10, 2015
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
This climb is fun, and not as hard as it looks. It is more of a flare than an open book- at least until you get to the top and the flare opens up. Once you get in the flare, you can chimney with knee-bars all the way up to the short lieback at the top. It was dirty, mouse shitty and doesn't seem to get done often. We cleaned it up. My friend Josh added another bolt at the top of the corner under the roof- so there is no need to traverse on huecos out above and right to the original anchor. The original anchor may have been used to access the seperate crack system above Flip of a Coin, but it seemed so illogical for the first pitch of this route to end out there. Hopefully more people will climb this route now. Fingers to hands size gear with extras in the tight hands and off-fingers sizes. Nov 10, 2008