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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Strickly, Tim Forsell, Keith Egerton - June 1979
Page Views: 11,970 total, 83/month
Shared By: EricD on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A prominent crack in the large face to the right of Tales of Flails, Scarlet Begonias, and Fails of Power. It begins at a tree and climbs the left-leaning crack to a vertical crack.

Many simply climb the first pitch (5.9).

Protection

A selection of TCUs for the start (#2 - #4), a few #2 cams and a couple #.75 cams. This will get you to the first set of anchors. Following beyond this requires larger pro (#3 & #4 cams) to get up the large crack and offwidth pod (a #6 could be handy as well).
M HawkMan  
 
Linked both pitches into one MEGA pitch! I would highly recommend climbing Cherry Crack this way.

The climbing to the first anchor is relatively quick and very easy compared to the rest of the route.

The off width is LONG- longer than the first "pitch". I brought 3 BD #4's and wish I had brought more. I would recommend at least 4 #4's and a #5. You don't need a #6 (although you could get it in in places). I wouldn't take one up there and I'm a pussy in OW. I did back clean the #5 once or twice- you may want to.

A 70M will not even come close to getting you back to the ground from the top of P2. You will come up about 40 feet short. 80M probably won't work either but who knows?

Recommended rack(modern BDC4):

.3
.4
.5
.75
1
(3) 2's
(4 to 5) 4's
5
a few slings for extensions

Have fun this thing is SICK! Feb 7, 2017
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
@Ryan Hill - Thanks for the update and more clear beta. Awesome job...maybe 3rd time will be a charm. Jul 8, 2012
Ryan Hill
Oakland, CA
Ryan Hill   Oakland, CA
Went to the second set of anchors yesterday, very cool offwidth climbing and much longer than it looked from the ground.

Gear wise the guide book I had and the information here seems a bit misleading. I brought up three BD#3, three BD#4, and one BD#5. The #3s were useless for the majority of the route. I placed one right off the bat and then it was #4 and #5 the whole way up. Shuffled lots of cams up. If I was to do it again four or five #4s would be useful, as would a second or third #5. Last 15-20 feet ease up, but the rest is solid 5.10.

Two ropes to rappel the whole thing or one rope with two rappels.

If you have the gear I highly recommend it. And thanks to the folks who replaced the top anchors, it was nice to rap off of something solid. Jan 6, 2012
D Snyder
Virgin, Utah
D Snyder   Virgin, Utah
As of 2/13/2011 the anchor at the top of the second pitch has been replaced with two rap hangers. Feb 14, 2011
Jared R
  5.9
Jared R  
  5.9
My first splitter lead and it was pretty fun. We only did the first pitch. I agree that the crux is on the traverse below the hands section. I have larger hands and it was still good jamming. Enjoy! Mar 1, 2010
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
for the second half...its easier to do it as one long pitch, you will need two #3, two #3.5, three #4, and two #4.5 camolots...There are plenty of places to place a number 5 (#6 c4) but not needed.

take spare webbing for the anchor..so few people do the upper half it is pretty mank. May 6, 2009
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
...the second pitch is harder than "Dihedral". You get some bomber gear right off the belay, then you loose the crack and their are sections that are run out b/c there is no crack - it gets flared and shallow. I was able to lead out on tipped out #5 wild country. So I had the gear but not the will or huevos big enough for the route and I backed off this pitch....twice now. In talking with the one person I do know who got up to the anchors, he said that where I was (15 ft up from the belay)....isn't the crux and that it gets harder towards the top about 10 feet or so before the anchor. May 5, 2009
Bekky
Yosemite, CA
 
Bekky   Yosemite, CA
 
This is a wonderful climb!! The Crux is the traverse below the perfect hands section. Definately a single pitch must do in Zion! Very similar to Indian Creek splitters. You will love it! Jan 31, 2006