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All Locations > Utah > Zion National Park > Cerberus Gendarme

No Holds Barred

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 0.5 from 4 votes

Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,799 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dean Cool on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb up a right facing hand crack into a shallow ledge with a bolt. The rest of the climb continues up a loose chimney where you belay/lower from a tree.

Location

40' right of Cave Route

Protection

1 bolt and cams up to #4

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MilesC
 
MilesC  
 
Heads up - In October 2014 this climb was more than loose. The upper chimney contained a wealth of loose blocks and flakes up to 18-24 inches in diameter. Some were precariously wedged diagonally between the walls of the chimney.

I did a bunch of cleaning on the way down, but there remain a large number of potentially lethal, fully detached blocks in the chimney. Oct 10, 2014

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