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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Conrad Anker 1987
Page Views: 2,137 total, 20/month
Shared By: B Roth on Apr 26, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A bolted face! Start 5 ft left of dire wolf and follow a meandering bolt line on thin edges. Bring you're edging shoes for this one. More technical than pumpy. Resist the urge to grab the bolts for balance.

Location

This route is long and the anchors are 20 ft higher than the end of the hard climbing. There are two options for descent. Option A is to rap to the anchors of dire wolf, 30 ft down and 10 ft to the right, then rap from there to the ground (a 60 will just barely make it). Option B is to use two ropes.

Protection

12'ish quickdraws, 1 small piece (finger size) to protect the beginning.

Photos

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mpech  
incredibly fun face-climbing route. all glue-in bolts except for one drilled angle. The bolt positions seemed a bit odd to me.... Feb 7, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Feels harder when sandy. I had to clean every single hold as I climbed from the ground.

The face climbing is really enjoyable. When you have good feet, you may not have any hands. Expect sustained ninja moves from bottom to top. The focus and precision required may be mentally taxing. May be harder if you are under 6 feet. Felt like solid 11+ for the onsight in its present state. Jan 2, 2017
Rob Warden...Space Lizard
Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Rob Warden...Space Lizard   Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Electrica is now equipped with Glue in wave bolts. All lead bolts are glue ins, the anchor bolts are a expansion bolt and a glue in. This route has lower off carabiners. my 60M static barely reached, so tie knots.

Enjoy and take the whip, this route is stellar. Mar 2, 2016
EJN
EJN  
Above the yellow alien, a BD#4 fits in the pod. Feb 8, 2014
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.11b PG13
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.11b PG13
5.11b---Yellow alien /TCU protects the start AFTER you do some solo 5.10 climbing. Man this thing is fun! You can get down with a 70m. Have to down climb the first 5 feet, easy

EDIT 2/15/12
New anchor per Conrad at the final ledge..Now possible to Rap all the way with a single sixty, be careful it is VERY close Oct 14, 2009