Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Conrad Anker 1987
Page Views: 2,491 total · 21/month
Shared By: B Roth on Apr 26, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


A bolted face! Start 5 ft left of dire wolf and follow a meandering bolt line on thin edges. Bring you're edging shoes for this one. More technical than pumpy. Resist the urge to grab the bolts for balance.


This route is long and the anchors are 20 ft higher than the end of the hard climbing. There are two options for descent. Option A is to rap to the anchors of dire wolf, 30 ft down and 10 ft to the right, then rap from there to the ground (a 60 will just barely make it). Option B is to use two ropes.


12'ish quickdraws, 1 small piece (finger size) to protect the beginning.


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Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.11b PG13
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.11b PG13
5.11b---Yellow alien /TCU protects the start AFTER you do some solo 5.10 climbing. Man this thing is fun! You can get down with a 70m. Have to down climb the first 5 feet, easy

EDIT 2/15/12
New anchor per Conrad at the final ledge..Now possible to Rap all the way with a single sixty, be careful it is VERY close Oct 14, 2009
Above the yellow alien, a BD#4 fits in the pod. Feb 8, 2014
Rob Warden...Space Lizard
Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Rob Warden...Space Lizard   Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Electrica is now equipped with Glue in wave bolts. All lead bolts are glue ins, the anchor bolts are a expansion bolt and a glue in. This route has lower off carabiners. my 60M static barely reached, so tie knots.

Enjoy and take the whip, this route is stellar. Mar 2, 2016
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Feels harder when sandy. I had to clean every single hold as I climbed from the ground.

The face climbing is really enjoyable. When you have good feet, you may not have any hands. Expect sustained ninja moves from bottom to top. The focus and precision required may be mentally taxing. May be harder if you are under 6 feet. Felt like solid 11+ for the onsight in its present state. Jan 2, 2017
incredibly fun face-climbing route. all glue-in bolts except for one drilled angle. The bolt positions seemed a bit odd to me.... Feb 7, 2017