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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Bernie Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Weiss, Billy Westbay, Larry Derby - March 1975
Page Views: 9,983 total · 65/month
Shared By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the prominent crack to the right of Cave Route. It starts in a small-hands splitter and moves up through two broken cracks to great arete climbing. Folks most often protect in the small crack and climb the arete.

You could also choose to weasel around in the offwidth crack, but that makes for some difficulty reaching the chain anchors at the top of the pitch.

Super fun route. Some great strength and technique moves with a great view.

Protection

Just about any cam on your rack will fit in this beauty. Make sure you have some #1s for the beginning, some #2s in the middle and some smaller stuff for the top. There is a great spot for a blue TCU in the small crack at the top of the pitch and a #3 comes in handy too.

The anchors are bomber bolts with chains.

Watch your rope when you pull; I've seen a few folks get their lines stuck in this crack.
B Roth
st george, ut
B Roth   st george, ut
for a harder and interesting variation try climbing the last 20 feet using only the thin crack on the right, I think it goes at about 11c this way Apr 11, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
A great and varied climb. Splitter hands finishing with quality, well-protected funkiness. Gear from small TCUs to #3 camalot. Apr 5, 2010
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
 
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
 
Super fun climb! Using just the finger crack up high is a bit contrived in my opinion. Apr 10, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The upper part of this looks like a solid 5.11 when you're below it. Somehow every move just works out perfectly to keep it in the 5.10 grade. Takes great gear and has some fantastic sporty movement. Jun 21, 2015

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