All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Cerberus Gendarme

Squeeze Play

Name: Squeeze Play
Rating: 3.5

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bernie Breakdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dire Wolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Mean High Tide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pussy Power > Penis Envy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tales of Flails T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Touchstone Wall T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C2
	Touchstone Wall (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Mike Weiss, Billy Westbay, Larry Derby - March 1975
Page Views:	13,708 total · 65/month
Shared By:	Bekky on Jan 31, 2006
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is the prominent crack to the right of Cave Route. It starts in a small-hands splitter and moves up through two broken cracks to great arete climbing. Folks most often protect in the small crack and climb the arete.

You could also choose to weasel around in the offwidth crack, but that makes for some difficulty reaching the chain anchors at the top of the pitch.

Super fun route. Some great strength and technique moves with a great view.

Protection

Just about any cam on your rack will fit in this beauty. Make sure you have some #1s for the beginning, some #2s in the middle and some smaller stuff for the top. There is a great spot for a blue TCU in the small crack at the top of the pitch and a #3 comes in handy too.

The anchors are bomber bolts with chains.

Watch your rope when you pull; I've seen a few folks get their lines stuck in this crack.