Avg: 3.8 from 108 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||FA-Olevsky and Schnelker, 1978. FFA-Drew Bedford and Roger Amory 1984|
|Page Views:||27,904 total · 116/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Collins on Oct 29, 2002|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
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However, the climb is not nearly as committing as Astroman (it can be rapped from any point on the route), has a 5 minute approach, and you don't have to descend the J. North Dome Gully at the end of the day.
Think of it more as six solid Indian Creek pitches stacked on top of one another, followed by two weird desert-adventure pitches at the top.
Don't be scared by the 5.12 rating: the crux is short and easily aided making this an excellent climb at the 5.11 A0 grade.
P1 Climb the easy but runout slab up and left to a belay at the base of the Pillar of Faith. Watch out for wet spots.
P2 (5.10+/11-) The real climbing starts here at the Pillar of Faith. Despite what many guides say, starting the pillar on the right side is 5.11R. Climb the pillar starting from the left and working back to the right.
P3 (5.12) The crux Black Corner pitch. Desperate tips lie-backing (or french-freeing) leads to a moderate chimney which is followed to a belay. The meat of the climbing is the first 15 feet of the pitch before reaching a good stem rest. Easily aided and fun to TR.
P4 (5.11) If you're climbing the route at 5.11 A0, then this would be the crux free pitch. Fun stemming leads to a rest before a difficult roof. The pitch goes for a long ways after the roof so long slings are key here to reduce rope drag. Pull the roof and continue up via sustained fingers in a corner with occasional feet to a very badly located anchor.
P5 (5.10) A fairly short pitch. Lieback and handjam up the corner to a belay in an alcove below a slot.
P6 Two options here:
The standard route climbs the OW and face above at 5.10 (#4.5 Camalot is nice for up high on the pitch).
If you're feeling particularly chipper at this point, you can traverse left to the Monkeyfinger Crack which goes at 5.12-.
Either option leads to a spacious belay in the Monkey House.
P7 (5.10+) Nice liebacking and jamming in the chalked corner above leads to a belay. A fairly short pitch.
P8 (5.10+) This is where things get weird. Climb up and right to a sandy slab which is protected by some drilled pins and bad bolts. Continue upward over interesting rock to a huge ledge and belay.
P9 (5.10+) Even weirder, but just like Astroman, you haven't climbed Monkeyfinger unless you've done the last pitch.
Enter the sandbox/chimney to the right of the belay. After finding a suitable location to empty the sand out of your shoes, clip a couple of bad bolts and undercling right out under a series of roofs and continue up to the rim. Once on the rim fight up through ropedrag, sand, and manzanita to a flat area where you can sling a couple of branches and belay.
- One set of stoppers
- Triple set of cams up to #2 Camalot
- Two #3 Camalots
- One each of #3.5, #4, and #4.5 Camalots
- Two 60m ropes will get you down in 5 raps