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Routes in Mt. Spry

Holy Roller T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shark Tooth Freighter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Cool small peak to the right of the Right Twin Brother. Home to many fine free climbs.

Getting There

first peak above and to the right as you turn in to the main canyon

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Spry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Holy Roller
Trad 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Swamp Donkey
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Holy Roller
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Swamp Donkey
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
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Photos

There's no established trail to this one. After a circuitous bushwhack to the routes I'd do this instead:

Park/get off the bus at Canyon Junction, and walk down the road until you're at the base of a wash directly below the main face with the three crack systems. Make your way up.

Or, as some of the locals do, get off at Court of the Patriarchs and longboard down-canyon to the same wash. Apr 18, 2011

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