Type: Trad, 440 ft (133 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 37.22187, -112.96378
FA: Joe French, Brody Greer (9/06), FFA: French, Zach Lee (2007)
Page Views: 3,431 total · 19/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Nov 14, 2010
Admins: Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Holy Roller

seeks out the right of the 3 prominent vertical splitter cracks at the north end of Mt. Spry (the left line is "Sandblaster", and the middle one is "Central Pillar"). The thing is, this crack doesn't start at the base of the route, so a bolt-protected face pitch gains it, with a couple great pitches as a reward. This aspect of Mt. Spry is shaded in the a.m. and sees afternoon sun.

P1: Climb a hand/fist crack in a right facing corner to a bolted anchor (5.9, 60').
P2: Follow the bolts up and right, through intricate face climbing. Most of the pitch is bolt-protected, but you'll need 1-3 pieces of gear for a finger/hand crack just below the anchor (5.10+, 90').
P3: Face climb up and left past 2 bolts. Enter a left trending crack system and follow this on a ramp past a bulge to a bolted belay (5.11, 100').
P4: Splitter hands straight up, passing a couple of bulges to a bolted belay (5.11, 100').
P5: Splitter hand crack to a pod (5.9?, 40').
Descent: Rap the route (we had 2x 60m, but 1 would probably work). With 2 ropes, go straight from the p3 to p1 anchors, rather than swinging over to the 2nd belay.

Location Suggest change

The face with Holy Roller and Sandblaster is pretty clear on the north side of Mt. Spry's west face. Park at the last pull-off on the right before reaching Court of the Patriarchs and hike up the hill (no trail).

Protection Suggest change

2 ea. cams to 4", and 7-8 quickdraws.

Photos

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