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Routes in The Organ

10 Percent T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Organ Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Organasm 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Organasm (Free) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Organasm (III 5.8 C2) is the primary line on The Organ, although other routes exist.

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Approach from pullout between Weeping Rock and Big Bend Shuttle stops on the west side of the road. Cross the river (sandals helpful).

Organasm is the obvious crack splitting the large roof. A switchbacking climbers' access trail will take you right to the base of the route.

Approach time: With low water, 20 minutes. High water, anyone's guess.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Organ

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Organasm
Aid 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Organ Grinder
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Organasm 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 Aid 4 pitches
Organ Grinder 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Organ »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Alex Haeger
Boulder, CO
Alex Haeger   Boulder, CO
This wall can also be accessed from the Big Bend pull out. Take the bus there and head down the trail towards the river that all of the tourists take. We crossed the river in late November by taking our shoes off and wading through. It was cold but not terribly bad. Unfortunately this rock isn't really climbable in cold weather and my feet turned into bricks of ice halfway up P1. Dec 3, 2015
Does anybody have any information on the short 35', single bolt anchor, hands to tips crack that lies 40' to the right(west) of Organasm? It's a sweet little climb if you're waiting out a slow party on Organasm. May 17, 2013
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
I think guidebooks call the crux pitch mid-5.12, but it's been so long since I did it, that I have no idea what it should be rated. I remember it being pretty face-climby and super cool. Jan 27, 2011
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
P1 5.8++
P2 5.11
P3 5.12- Crux crack switch
P4 5.7 Jan 27, 2011
jackkelly00
new hampshire
jackkelly00   new hampshire
Does anyone know what it goes free at? Jan 27, 2011
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
The first two pitches can be linked with prudent use of long runners and goes free at around 5.11+. The roof is pretty much perfect jams until you pull the lip.

Feb 11, 2006
TT
TT  
it has been a year (+ or -) since I was on this route, but I remember it to be one of my two most favorite routes in Zion. The second pitch is where it is at. Do the whole thing free for complete emancipation. Take normal to light rack as it is a short pitch, don't leave the belay w/o a . 75 BD to protect the crux and to keep the rope out of the crack which would push all of your cams protecting the horizontal part out of reach for the follower. A text book .75 placement can be found just right of the angle change coming out of the roof (separate crack system). Good luck, don't be intimadated by its looks, protects super well and climbs even better. Sep 30, 2005
It would be nice if you can use 3 Black Diamiond .75 and 3 2 inch cams or equivalent as these sizes come in very handy for the first pitch. A few raps off the summit would be advised rather then the bushwacking dirty downclimb. Aug 4, 2002

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