Type: Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ron Olevsky & Mike Strassman - Aug. 1983
Page Views: 10,373 total · 49/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Mar 29, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Organasm is an excellent intro into Zion aid climbing. At just 4 pitches, it's half the commitment of nearby neighbors Touchstone Wall and Spaceshot. Furthermore, pitches 1 and 4 may be free climbed at a modest 5.8 and 5.7, respectively.

P1 (5.8) Free climb 5.8 crack up pillar, past a single bolt, and continue through awkward wide section to gain a decent stance at a sling belay.

P2 (C1) Aid through a stellar roof through a splitter crack with bomber C1 placements. The crux of the route is probably cleaning this pitch, so be sure to read up on cleaning roofs BEFORE attempting (better yet, get some practice at your local area)! Continue past roof to a bolted anchor.

P3 (C2) A fairly long (150'?) pitch. Aid through second (smaller) roof and out onto arĂȘte. Straightforward nutting and good cam placements up this vertical crack, which ends on a nice ledge with bolted anchors.

P4 (5.7) Short section up easy 5.7 crack to top.

For a topo of the route, check this out.

Protection

  • One to two sets of nuts (offsets work great)
  • Two sets of cams to 4"
  • Extras in #.5 and #.75 Camalot size helpful
  • Extras in #2 Camalot size helpful
  • Two ropes if planning on rapping from top of P2

The use of cam hooks should be avoided for soft rock areas such as Zion due to potential to damage the rock.

Descent

Descend to climbers' right via bushwack through gully to the north. Although fairly straightforward by daylight, just finding the descent gully would be difficult in the dark. Come prepared: bring a headlamp (and don't forget to check your batteries).

If pressed for time, retreat is possible from the top of pitch 2 via one double-rope rap.

Photos