Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Organ

10 Percent T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Organ Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Organasm 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Organasm (Free) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Eric Draper and Bryan Bird, 2008
Page Views: 617 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Apr 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Begin about 75 ft. left of The Oxbow Incident on the right side of a detached block. The route follows left-trending cracks and chimneys interspersed with vegetated ledges for approximately 400 ft. You then reach a left-racing corner which leads to a 4th class summit scramble. The decent follows a gully just left of the route. Follow the gully to the skier's right until you reach a slung juniper tree. Do an 80 ft rappel to another slung tree located in a narrow gully below. Another single rope rappel will lead you to a large series of ledges. Continue scrambling down and right until you reach another slung tree and do one double-rope rappel to the ground.

Location

10 Percent begins near the center of the Southeast Face of The Organ just left of the start of Cheyenne Social Club and The Oxbow Incident. The start can be identified by a section broken rock at the base of the organ with several noticeable aretes.

Protection

Doubles to 4", large nuts, two 60m ropes for rappel.

Photos

marcin ksok
Flagstaff, AZ
marcin ksok   Flagstaff, AZ
Seems that this route has been previously climbed except for last pitch. Was called Southeast Chimney. See here:
summitpost.org/se-chimney-5…
Dow Williams cites descriptions from '78(Jim Beyer and Courtney Simpkinsand),'79 (Gary Colgan and Steve Giddings). I climbed it on 4.13.13 and found the description accurate, the supertopo helsp quite a bit though. Backed up 2 raps on the way down. Apr 15, 2013
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Supertopo route photo:
supertopo.com/rock-climbing… Apr 24, 2011