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Elevation: 6,555 ft 1,998 m
GPS: 37.18464, -112.97954
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,086 total · 172/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Mar 4, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Watchman is the beautiful and often photographed formation guarding the south entrance to Zion. The impressive 1/2 mile wide west face is cleaved with many vertical cracks, corners, pillars and chimneys. The west face varies from 1,000 to 1,500' high, with at least 15 established routes. 10 of them going from bottom to top. The climbing is very traditional. Make sure you have experience in multi-pitch sandstone climbing.

In May of 1973 Mike Weis and Jeff Lowe made the first ascent of the steep west face via a crack system just below the summit. Their route went all free save a pendulum up high.

This secluded area doesn't get many visitors. Most of the routes are concentrated on the south end of the west face, where the rock is steeper and more compact. Most of the rock is good, but one must beware of the usual loose rock on ledges and wide chimneys.

Getting There Suggest change

The preferred parking is at the Zion NP Visitor Center and walking through watchmen campground to the B Loop, you cannot park in the Watchmen Campground without a reservation. 

Walk B loop until you reach the trail between B 55 and B 56 is a river access trail, take this. Once at the "beach" sandy part after a <100' hang a hard Left. This will take you into a wash, behind sites 58 and 60. Near Site 60 and 61 head right and uphill (toward the climbs) looking for NPS green marker posts. 

Follow this to the top of the plateau. Walk the Plateau, you'll cross an old stone fence, keep going. The "Springdale band" is the short cliff above you on the left, follow this until the springdale band ends, go uphill to the base of the West face of the watchmen.

11 Total Climbs

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Location: The Watchman Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Watchman

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Mythical Kings & Iguanas
Trad 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Negative Ghostrider
Trad 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 4
North Ridge
Trad 10 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 11
The Vigil
Trad 10 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 15
Chastity Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Silmaril
Trad 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mythical Kings & Iguanas
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Negative Ghostrider
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 9 pitches
North Ridge
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 10 pitches
The Vigil
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad 10 pitches
Chastity Crack
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Silmaril
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Watchman »

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