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Routes in The Watchman

Chastity Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cradle to Grave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2
Hoods in the Woods T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mythical Kings & Iguanas T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Negative Ghostrider T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Silmaril T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strikes & Gutters T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1- PG13
Vigil, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Jones & Brian Smoot, 2004 FFA Steffan Gregory & Alan Thorne (5.11+)
Page Views: 1,237 total, 12/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Feb 6, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Cradle to Grave starts with 3 excellent chimney/offwidth pitches on great rock. One squeeze section was so narrow I had to take my harness off to get through. It's also possible to avoid this section by climbing the offwidth out side of the chimney. 3 more pitches, including a 35' section of clean aid, lead to an excellent, exposed crack, leading to the summit.

Location

See photo topo under "Watchman"

Protection

2-3 sets cams with a few big sizes including the largest camalot. 1 set R.P.'s
Sgreg  
Jones and Smoot found a fun one!

Alan Thorne and I freed the C2 section at 11+ R, this pitch was red pointed.

Brain Smoot's topo is very accurate and much neater then mine. I drew up one with updated belay info. Found all rope lengths to be on. I just wanted to add optional, additional gear belay's to avoid one bolt anchors as well as stances to limit rope drag. A great Zion adventure route. The OW's were fun and well protected. At least one #6 for myself was mandatory, though two would be placed all day. Dave and Brain are animals! well done boys!

The crux corner was very fun and a bomber red ball nut could be placed to minimize the R rating( if you believe in free climbing over those in the desert.) It was a nice piece for the "thin pro" indication on the pitch above the crux.






Steffan Apr 28, 2017