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Routes in The Watchman

Chastity Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cradle to Grave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2
Hoods in the Woods T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mythical Kings & Iguanas T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Negative Ghostrider T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Silmaril T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strikes & Gutters T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1- PG13
Vigil, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA: Bryan Bird, Joe French 11/05. FFA: Bryan Bird, Joe French 11/08
Page Views: 1,307 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ross Peritore on Apr 22, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Negative Ghostrider is a fun climb. It is the southernmost climb on the west face of The Watchman. Climbing consists of mostly finger to fist sized cracks, with a bit of chimney as well. Rock ranges from solid to choss, with most being pretty good. All in all we had a blast on this route, with cool features, engaging climbing, and most belays at comfy stances.
Descent by rapping the route is surprisingly straight forward.
Be aware that there is a huge detached flake atop pitch 3. There is a bolted belay in bomber rock above the flake, but you are basically standing on it with your belayer straight below.
The topo in the Bird guide is right on, although we did link pitches 4-6.

Protection

set nuts
1 blue alien is handy
2x green alien - #3 Camalot 1 extra .75 & 1
1x #4, #5
2 60m ropes

Photos

Alec LaLonde
  5.11-
Alec LaLonde  
  5.11-
This is a fun route with several pitches of excellent climbing followed by a few lesser-quality pitches at the top. Routefinding was pretty straightforward up to pitch nine.

1: Easy wide cracks and a chimney to a ledge below a pinched-off chimney. 5.8 90’
2: A nice handcrack in the chimney leads to a fun rightward traverse on good gear, then up a fingers section to easier cracks above. Bolted anchor. 5.10 80’
3: A nice handcrack above the belay goes through a left-facing corner and short ramp to a thin, steep splitter finger crack. When this peters out, go left to jam up an easy handcrack on the right side of the Ghost. Belay from bolts, standing on the Ghost. A fantastic pitch on excellent rock. 5.11 90’
4: Continue up the crack, wandering where it takes you, through a few small roofs and eventually moving left and up to a bolted belay. 5.10- 80’
5: More steep hand jams to a ledge, move right up easy ground and then back left up a small alcove with a fist-to-hands crack in the back. Classic funky Zion moves get you up this. Continue up large blocks to the base of a very thin splitter. This is listed as two pitches in the guide but we did it as one with minimal rope drag. 5.10 100’
6: Face climbing on delicate edges protected by small cams in the very thin crack. We placed everything from a purple 00 C3 to a .3 C4. Two-bolt belay. Fun, pumpy and improbable. 5.11- 70’
7: Follow the hand crack in the corner. After 40 feet the rock quality degrades substantially but climbing eases to 5.6 up another corner and detached flake with poor gear. Another bolted belay on a good ledge. 5.8 PG13 70’
8: Traverse left to the right-facing corner. Follow the short, sandy hand-to-fist crack up to a series of ledges and a tied-off bush anchor. 5.9 60’
9: From the large ledge, there seem to be two options, on either side of the steep blank face directly above. Head up and right from the belay up a dirty crack and sandy mantle. Traverse right, doing some bushwhacking, then up the chimney system. This pinches off after 30’ to a hand crack, then a gear belay on the good stance above. 5.9 130’
10: Traverse right, then step back left and up the unprotected easy chimney. Pop out to a fantastic topout, hopefully with some sun! 5.6 60’ Mar 25, 2014

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