Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: pitches 4-7 Ethan Newman, Steffan Gregory
Page Views: 1,022 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sgregory on May 10, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route has a long list of First Ascensionists Brad Quinn established the first wide hands pitch. Then followed by Brian Smoot and Garrett Kemper had attempted a similar line and made it to the vegetated ramp below the upper half of the route. Smoot and Kemper’s line of ascent was slightly left of our first three pitches. We later found out that the two pitches above Brad Quinn’s initial hand crack were climbed by Andy Anderson, Rob Duncan, and Ari Menitove in March 2014, but they had also descended from the vegetated ramp. Ethan and I over a number of trips up the wall Established pitches 4-10.

The route is good, though there is a lot of scrambling/route finding between sections on the route and a fair bit of fist and wide climbing. It's great for something off the beaten path but there are many routes on the W Face to climb before this route, 7/10 pitches are good, the rest, is take it or leave it. The photos are of the best pitches, there's plenty of bush whacking and standard Zion adventure choss as well. 

The crux is a tips to tight hand crack at pitch 8, that could be easily aided at C1.

Link to the AAJ report on the route;
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214513/The-Watchman-First-Ascent-of-Surfs-Up-and-First-Free-Ascent-of-Cradle-to-Grave

Location Suggest change

West Face of the Watchmen

The route starts left of the two boulders leaning on the middle of the wall. The photo overlay should get you there.

The first pitch is short, sandy and vegetated

2 60m ropes to rappel the route

Protection Suggest change

Single grey C3, purple C3, #5 BD #6 BD, Double set Green C3 - .5 BD + 4 BD, Triple .75 BD-#3BD Extra #3 BD

Photos

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