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Routes in Harlequin Dome

By Hook or By Crook T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chinese Handcuffs T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cyclone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Sensitive S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Hoodwink T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sausalito Archie's Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sting, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Third World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Trilogy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Roger Breedlove, Jim Bridwell, 1973
Page Views: 3,804 total · 29/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Jun 6, 2007 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A strange but enjoyable route. Cruxes on the third and fourth pitches (check out the photo in the latest guidebook).
p1- Follow a straight-in handish crack to a shallow left facing corner. Mildly flaring jams. Short. 70', 5.8.
p2- Continue up this corner liebacking and sometimes jamming to a 10' slab traverse left towards an obvious ledge. Locate a pin and a pod for a purple camalot to belay off of. 140', 5.9
p3- Follow an easier right-facing corner up to the "6 foot" roof. It didn't seem quite that big, but my feet definitely cut. Clip a pin for protection and go for it. The pitch ends at bolts. 110', .10a.
p4- Climb some 5.10 slab moves up ever-mellowing terrain to a two-bolt belay. 100', 5.10a.

Location

You can see the roof you're aiming for from the ground. Follow the corners up to it. Walk off to the left and descend the gully to the looker's left of Harlequin Dome.

Protection

A wide range of gear. A fixed pin in the roof and bolts on the final slab pitch.

Photos

mpech  
great climb -- probably best described as 5.9 V2... Jun 29, 2015
Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA



The first pitch is nothing like the rest of the route. I love the first pitch so much. But it's nothing like what's to come.

Everything after is slick and dependent on good footwork.

Linked the 5.9/5.7 together and it was great, less rope drag and we ended up in a better belay stance for the traverse to roof.

The roof, I botched badly. I need to get solid on V3's to get over that thing solid.

The 5.10a off the final pitch was joyous to me cause that's the style of climbing I like. The hanger less bolt from the FA is still there right above the first bolt. Sep 26, 2012
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
FA story by Breedlove
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Jan 21, 2012
Supper fun route! Fun climbing the entire way up. Beware of rope drag on the third pitch, use lots of runners before the first little roof thing before the arch. The last 5.7 pitch was scary... or maybe I I just got lost on the slab... or maybe 5.7 slab is just too much for this one to muster. I don;t know. Sep 29, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Definitely a tough pull. The pin can be backed up by an green or yellow alien. Feb 11, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
1st two pitches link easily with 70m rope, and maybe even with a 60.

3rd pitch moves well right out the arch so sling looong and protect sparingly or suffer heinous rope drag. I had to do the move, lower down and unclip the two pins and redo the move, and the ropedrag for bringing up the second was still terrible much of the pitch.

Fun roof pull! Aug 12, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Thought this route was super rad and makes for a great day (or afternoon) when combined with The Sting and By Hook Or By Crook. Jul 7, 2009

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