Type: Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Roger Breedlove, Jim Bridwell, 1973
Page Views: 4,342 total · 30/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Jun 6, 2007 with improvements by Roger Breedlove
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A strange but enjoyable route. Cruxes on the third and fourth pitches (check out the photo in the latest guidebook).
p1- Follow a straight-in handish crack to a shallow left facing corner. Mildly flaring jams. Short. 70', 5.8.
p2- Continue up this corner liebacking and sometimes jamming to a 10' slab traverse left towards an obvious ledge. Locate a pin and a pod for a purple camalot to belay off of. 140', 5.9
p3- Follow an easier right-facing corner up to the "6 foot" roof. It didn't seem quite that big, but my feet definitely cut. Clip a pin for protection and go for it. The pitch ends at bolts. 110', .10a.
p4- Climb some 5.10 slab moves up ever-mellowing terrain to a two-bolt belay. 100', 5.10a.

Location

You can see the roof you're aiming for from the ground. Follow the corners up to it. Walk off to the left and descend the gully to the looker's left of Harlequin Dome.

Protection

A wide range of gear. A fixed pin in the roof and bolts on the final slab pitch.

Photos