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Routes in Harlequin Dome

By Hook or By Crook T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chinese Handcuffs T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cyclone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Sensitive S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Hoodwink T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sausalito Archie's Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sting, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Third World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Trilogy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Chris Falkenstein & Dave Hitchcock, 1979
Page Views: 1,947 total, 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

By Hook or By Crook is an awesome, technical, and thought-provoking three-pitch climb up Harlequin Dome -- a candidate for one of the best 5.11's in Tuolumne.

P1: Begin at a shallow, right-leaning, right-facing dihedral at the center of the wall, near a large pine. Recent rockfall has made this pitch more difficult and more dangerous -- a stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended. Ascend this corner via smears and powerful liebacks until a stance at the anchor below a roof. 5.11b.

P2: Start P2 by going right, clip an old bolt and then hand traverse to the right. The route then traverses left to an arete-like feature formed by a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this after clipping an oddly-placed bolt (consider backcleaning or a long runner) up to a poor stance under a roof. Hand-traverse back right a few feet and pull through the roof on extremely powerful liebacks. Good, small gear here. Continue up to another bolted belay. 5.11b, crux. It is possible to descend from here with two raps on a single 60m rope, but the third pitch should not be missed. Bring a second rope in this case or be prepared to walk off.

P3: Climb a long, tricky, right-facing corner to the top. 5.10c.

Protection

Standard rack through #2 Camalot. Extra small cams and small wires useful. Stick clip.

Photos

FYI, with a single, uncut 70m, with rope stretch, you can rap pitch 3 comfortably to pitch 2's anchors, despite SuperTopo saying p3 is 130 feet. Another rap gets you to the ground. Amazing route, amazing movement! Oct 10, 2015
Khick
 
Khick  
 
First crux was tough but the climbing after that was fun. I belayed at the anchors in the alcove, which I assume is the anchor for Heat Sensitive. The next pitch was rad too! The shallow corner and crux were really fun, I wish it could have been longer. Sep 4, 2015
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
no fixed stopper there now, but there's a bolt nearby and the gear is easy enough to place. Also, we got down from the second pitch anchor in one rappel with a single sixty meter rope... barely. The third pitch looks good... wish I would have gone to the top. Aug 24, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
You can easily rap to the ground from the top pitch 2 with a single 70m rope. As of 9/7/08, there's a fixed #5 stopper at the roof, so go do the route! It's like a sport climb with that thing there. Sep 8, 2008
peachy spohn  
 
The beginning can be protected safely, as 426 says. I used a #2 metolious. Also, you can link pitches 1 & 2 with a 70m rope for a great long pitch. Make sure to use long runners. From the second pitch anchors you can lower to the first anchors. Aug 31, 2008
426
  5.11b
426  
  5.11b
Indeed, one of the best 5.11's...

...didn't think the start was too bad, seemed to protect very well with .75 cams. Maybe rockfall made the clip more powerful (:?) Definitely a "get it on jones" sequence; do not stall.

Bring your roof/lb game for the second pitch. Small rack but mostly draws and slings is the name of the game.

Don't stop at the original anchor (see JJ's comments). It's wild but safe to go to the next stance which is much better for the second pitch. Mar 6, 2007