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Harlequin Dome | 5821
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Harlequin Dome
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By Hook or By Crook T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Chinese Handcuffs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cyclone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Harlequin Dome | 5821 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Heat Sensitive S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hoodwink T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sausalito Archie's Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Sting, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Third World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Trilogy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.84009, -119.45521 |
| FA: | Chris Falkenstein, Joe Rousek, Dave Bengston 9/1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,031 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Conor Clarke on Sep 8, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The SuperTopo guidebook describes the crux first pitch as “technical, well-protected, and often overlooked,” which sounds about right. Those looking for a more difficult start to the Sting, or some harder cragging pitches on Harlequin Dome, should give No Rock Nazis a try.
P1 -- Thin, technical 11c climbing leads up past four bolts, finishing with a mantle onto the right-trending ramp. (The first bolt is easy but committing to reach. A .75 C4 will protect the initial moves.) Follow the ramp delicately (a little scary but not too hard) until it connects with a thin finger crack with an old piton that leads more or less straight up to the anchors. Seventy feet. Fairly simple to lead and TR just this first pitch.
P2 -- P2 starts quite far to the right of the P1 anchors, at another set of bolts. Traversing over to these other anchors did not look overly difficult. While I haven’t climbed it, the second pitch follows 11b liebacking and face climbing with a mix of gear and bolts. 100 feet. From there, the climb joins the Sting.
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