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Routes in Harlequin Dome

By Hook or By Crook T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chinese Handcuffs T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cyclone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heat Sensitive S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Hoodwink T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sausalito Archie's Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sting, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Third World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Trilogy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ed Barry, Dave Hitchcock, 7/80
Page Views: 537 total, 4/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Dec 18, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Cool route on the right side of the dome. Traversing, technical first pitch goes at heads-up (old-school) 5.10a. Second pitch takes sweet cracks to a powerful crux crack switch, then a bit of runout 5.10 up a ramp to the final bolt. Use care on the easy last pitch due to large loose blocks.

Location

Far right side of the dome, with a right-traversing first pitch. See photo for Cyclone.

Protection

Pro to 3", doubles 1-2". 2 bolts, 2 fixed pins first pitch, bolted anchor; 1 bolt on second pitch. All bolts replaced 2006.

Photos

Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
 
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
 
Climbed it June 8th, before seeing Luke's comment, and definitely was surprised how dirty it is (but I'm sure improved, thanks Luke!) - doesn't look like it gets climbed much at all, let's improve that :) About 8 feet from the belay (10c area) I broke a large chunk of rock off the right wall/arete (20" x 5" x 3") - luckily, it missed my belayer and there was nobody below (also missed me/didn't damage the rope - I was liebacking/fell onto a green camalot I had placed just below it). I've climbed lots on loose rock in the Canadian Rockies, Sierra, etc., but this took me by complete surprise, as there was no visible fracture line above or below, or any indication that this was a "block" vs the solid wall, so it was not anticipated at all, wake-up call.

Anyway, it's cleaner now, and didn't become any harder than 10+ in that lower part. Lowered to the belay and onsighted the crux from there, probably due to the adrenaline - the crux is tricky but extremely well protected - the disintegrating footholds/flaky rock make it extra exciting. The upper 5.9/5.10 face climbing is PG13, with small TCU's in a pocketed face up to the bolt (which is further than I expected, and to the right). Good climb, it will get much better with traffic!



Jun 14, 2012
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
Climbed this past weekend 9/24/11. Seemed that route had not been done in quite a while, spent a bunch of time cleaning out dirt an lichen. Crux was hard to figure out. Nuts work well for pro. The climbing post crux is a bit heads up at 5.10. Seemed like one large loose block had recently fallen from right below the belay ledge at the end of P2. We trundled a few more rocks, but there is a ton of loose stuff up there. Sep 26, 2011