Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Stewart, 1991
Page Views: 12,744 total · 64/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Sep 28, 2002 with updates from Matt Wilber
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


131 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

The refrigerator-wide double arete up the largest pillar of the grotto. Feet get more friendly as you get higher, but for the first 2 bolts, you have to trust your smear.

Protection

6 bolts to hangers either left or right of the column.You can lead an easier trad climb nearby to set up a top rope if you so desire, but put in a directional or two if you do.
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.10d
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
  5.10d
And trust your grip, as the hands through this section consist of nothing more than the aretes, which are slightly rounded in the beginning.

Badass! Good luck finding these moves anywhere else. Sep 30, 2002
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Area classic. Crux is probably getting to the first bolt. Surprinsgly secure moves once you get into the groove. Nov 25, 2006
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
great climb, very unique. I'd give it .10d just because of the opening moves. I'd advise stepping up from the left and preclipping the first bolt, then starting from the ground. Jan 18, 2007
Amy Sturgill
Nevada City
Amy Sturgill   Nevada City
HAHA! Great fun but good luck climbing gracefully on this one! Jan 16, 2008
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10d
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10d
Great route, crux (felt harder than .10c as rated in the guidebook) is definitely the opening moves. I had to get pretty creative to make it past the opening sequence, not exactly sure what I did, but I remember using about every trick in the book.

The remainder of the route is mostly easier (yet sustained) 5.10 climbing. Good rests, great friction moves, unique body movements and use of the arete earns this route 4 stars in my book. Apr 6, 2009
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10d
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10d
Absolutely stellar and unique. First couple bolts are tough, easier after that. Love the rest in the handjam slot halfway up! Apr 23, 2010
mpech  
bolts are in stupid locations, but otherwise a fun climb Jun 12, 2017
Matt Wilber
San Mateo, CA
Matt Wilber   San Mateo, CA
Climbed this yesterday (Sep 2018) and there were 6 bolts before the mussy hooks, not 5 as in the description. Great route, some creative clipping stances felt very secure! Sep 23, 2018