Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Will Chen Mark Robinson '89
Page Views: 137 total, 1/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Feb 19, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a thin granite face route that starts off a block. First move is an in your face mantle and then it's thin to win from there. Wear your edging shoes and move up past 5 bolts before traversing right when it blanks out and finish via Pony Express.

This climb has gotten a bolt upgrade sometime in 2007, big thanks to whoever did it (John Robinson?) for removing the old manky leepers and putting in quality hardwear without damaging the stone.

Because it finishes on the same bolt anchor atop Pony Express, this is an excellent toprope after leading that climb.

It's good climbing, and would get more stars if it was completely independent...

Location

Face just left of Pony Express, just left of the Podium.

Protection

5 bolts + chain anchors, bring some cams for the upper 30' of Pony Express.

Photos

- No Photos -
mpech  
was fun, but a bit contrived-- you take the line of most resistance to the second bolt, and then you escape right to pony express for some reason Jun 1, 2017