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Routes in The Chapel Wall

Berlin Wall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chockblock Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controlled Burn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmic Debris T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Dragon T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drive By Shooting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exploited T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly-Girls T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gold Dust T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heathenistic Pursuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Home-Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lighten Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Max Deviator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mongoloid S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Pinkeyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pink Panther S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rock-Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scattered Youth T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ken Ariza, Cade Loyd, Tucker Tech, & Chris Holmes - October 1988
Page Views: 3,238 total · 32/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 6, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

One of the harder .12a sport climbs in the Valley. It is steep and clean. The first four bolts are easy and will lead you to a good rest. Then, move out left and into the crux moves. Stick two fingers into the white dike's hole and move up into a slippery tight hand jam and clip the fifth bolt. Continue up difficult 5.11 clipping a final bolt before reaching the jug at the top.

Location

Park at the Chapel and walk toward the cliff. Follow the trail to Bridalveil Falls for 50 yards or so. Take an obvious footpath to the left when the cliff almost reaches the trail. Drive by is the sport climb right where the footpath meets the cliff. Just to the right of the large left facing corner. There are two sport climbs that share the same first bolt. Drive By is the one on the right.

Protection

Seven quickdraws. Chains on top.

Photos

Osprey Overhang   ...
 
I have climbed this about a half a dozen times and have never taken anything but quickdraws. The Don Reid guide says to bring a #2 friend. I've fallen clipping the bolt above where the friend would go and the fall is safe and clean. Mar 6, 2010
Frank Sosa
Washington
Frank Sosa   Washington
"Stick two fingers into the white dike's hole and move up into a slippery tight..."

Sorry, I found that bit amusing! Apr 4, 2011
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
As today (Sep 14th, 2014) there were 7 bolts on this route. Probably a bolt was added recently? Sep 15, 2014
Michael Dom  
 
My vote for the best sport line in the valley. Dec 12, 2016
mpech  
Fantastic movement and great fun. Ignore the reid guide-- no #2 friend is needed-- I think a bolt has been added since that was published? Apr 5, 2017

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