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Routes in The Grotto

AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Men's Crisis Center T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rawhide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Bite T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

The Grotto is one of the most alien places I've ever seen (alongside Joshua Tree)! You're in a 30-foot deep pit, surrounded by climbing. The main wall is columnar basalt until it gets to the surrounding ground level, then becomes more featured and very overhung above ground.The area is also a lot cooler due to its location, and doesn't see much sun. The lower part of the wall has mainly trad climbs, though a few bolted routes like the classic AC Devil Dog are present too. The upper wall is all sport and is mostly very difficult. It can only be reached by climbing the lower routes first.

Getting There

Approach time: 20 - 25 minutes.

Use the "Getting There" description for Welcome Wall, then simply continue left another 2 minutes on the trail. You'll go down a steep trail between some rocks, and you will see the columnar Grotto in front of you on the right, the Ort Wall on the left, and The Cave Routes ahead and left.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Grotto

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 107
Bandito
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 102
Table Manners
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 87
Go with the Flow
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Granted
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Hole in the Wall
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
Chicken Ranch Bingo
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 67
Three Fingered Jack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 126
AC Devil Dog
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 85
Rawhide
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
To Pin or Not To Be
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Table Manners - Left
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
Snake Bite
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Squealer
Trad, Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 18
Men's Crisis Center
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Flight Simulator
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bandito
 107
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Table Manners
 102
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Go with the Flow
 87
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Granted
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hole in the Wall
 41
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Chicken Ranch Bingo
 39
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Three Fingered Jack
 67
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
AC Devil Dog
 126
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rawhide
 85
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
To Pin or Not To Be
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Table Manners - Left
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Snake Bite
 40
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Squealer
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Men's Crisis Center
 18
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Flight Simulator
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Grotto »

Weather Averages

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Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
Although the climbing is excellent, it is worth noting that the grotto reeks of (rodent? bat?) excrement, and is mobbed on weekends. Sep 23, 2011
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
Are the climbs on the back wall (opposite of the pillars) in some other area on MP? Cannot find them. I could add them but I dunno the names :( There's a 10c, 10d, 11?, 10b, 9 and an 8 I think? Maybe more. Oct 25, 2015
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
the wall opposite the Grotto that you are describing is Ort Wall Oct 30, 2015
Steven Sheets
Livermore, CA
Steven Sheets   Livermore, CA
Anyone know what that fenced off big hole is on the approach to the Grotto? An old mine shaft? It is quite deep so if you peer in be careful. Nov 30, 2016

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