Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,846 total · 21/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Apr 18, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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63 Opinions

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

This Crack sits just below the terraces on the left of the grotto, and uses a crack that gets quite large about 20 feet up. Sitting on the leftside of a column, this is just left of Hole in the Wall (5.10a), which sits on the front of the column.

Climb up the crack using fists, fingers, your forearms and whatever else you can use for hands while feet are available both in the crack and out. After the large section of crack, the rock splits, and climbing is easy. Move right once out of the crack system, where you will find the upper bolt of Hole in the Wall a convenient clip. Finish using the shared anchors above the bolts.

Protection

Gear to 3 1/2", though you'll be fine if you leave things over 2" on the ground. 1 (or 2) bolts protect the route above the crack, and the 2 bolt anchor is shared with Hole in the Wall (5.10a).

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caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
personally, I like this route a lot and would give it 3 stars out of 5. 2 out of 4 here. fun handcrack. Jan 18, 2007
Will M.
Oakland
 
Will M.   Oakland
 
Really fun and easy jamming. Can stem on the left if you need to rest. Apr 27, 2011
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
Was climbing this route a few months ago and we heard some high pitched chirping around the crack to the left, it didn't occur to me back then but now I am suspecting a bat may be living in there. Keep your ears open before placing those handjams! Mar 26, 2013
Ken R
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.8
Ken R   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.8
This is my favorite crack at The Grotto. The jams feel more solid to me than either Bandito or Table Manners. Takes 3 #2 Camalots, plus a #1 and a 0.75. Oct 26, 2015
Alex Lloyd
Bozeman, MT
  5.8
Alex Lloyd   Bozeman, MT
  5.8
Great handcrack with maybe one fist-sized move. No stemming necessary. I found the face climbing up top a bit harder than the crack itself. Singles from .75-3, a sling or two, and 3 draws will get you up! Mar 5, 2017