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Routes in The Grotto

AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Men's Crisis Center T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rawhide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Bite T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,584 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 17, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

Located between Three Fingered Jack and the wider 5.9 hand-to-fist crack, Hole in the Wall is finger crack down low with some wide sections up high, ending with a couple of sporty moves protected by bolts.

It is one of the more sustained cracks in the grotto, which makes it seem a tougher lead than Three-Fingered Jack despite the fact that the moves are a little easier.

Protection

Pro up to 2 inches. Then two bolts to anchors shared with the 5.9 crack.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
take care, the rock quality is VERY QUESTIONABLE on this starting about half way up. There is a 1/2 inch crust on the more solid basalt that is pretty loose, I think if you fell on a cam there it could blow the rock and the placement. Mar 18, 2007
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
 
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
 
Caughtinside is right about the questionable rock quality... but I really only noticed the "flaky crust" factor in a single 3' section of the climb. Put in gear just below the crust, and just above, and I don't think there's any reason to be concerned. Very fun climb; love it! Apr 23, 2010

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