Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,770 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 17, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

Located between Three Fingered Jack and the wider 5.9 hand-to-fist crack, Hole in the Wall is finger crack down low with some wide sections up high, ending with a couple of sporty moves protected by bolts.

It is one of the more sustained cracks in the grotto, which makes it seem a tougher lead than Three-Fingered Jack despite the fact that the moves are a little easier.

Protection

Pro up to 2 inches. Then two bolts to anchors shared with the 5.9 crack.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
take care, the rock quality is VERY QUESTIONABLE on this starting about half way up. There is a 1/2 inch crust on the more solid basalt that is pretty loose, I think if you fell on a cam there it could blow the rock and the placement. Mar 18, 2007
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
 
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
 
Caughtinside is right about the questionable rock quality... but I really only noticed the "flaky crust" factor in a single 3' section of the climb. Put in gear just below the crust, and just above, and I don't think there's any reason to be concerned. Very fun climb; love it! Apr 23, 2010
Latvian climber
  5.10a
Latvian climber  
  5.10a
Sustained indeed, the stances for placing gear are all good but you actually have to hang off your jam to place gear unlike Three Fingered Jack which has huge shelves that you can stand on while placing. Jan 2, 2019