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Routes in The Grotto

AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Men's Crisis Center T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rawhide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Bite T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,874 total · 36/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Sep 28, 2002
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

Climb the crack just right of AC Devil Dog. It starts as a finger crack and widens out to fists as you ascend. Plenty of feet and rests make it a comfortable lead.

Protection

Gear from small to four inches, very easy to place and anchors at the top.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
Fun route, and worth doing. A #4 camalot will be helpful. Nov 25, 2006
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
A good crack warmup. Yep, one larger (#4 size) is helpful for the lead. Jan 18, 2007
Jared-EMS
Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Jared-EMS   Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Solid route for learning to place pro Jul 13, 2010
Ken R
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.8+
Ken R   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.8+
A fun route. Seems burlier to me than Granted mainly because of the wide section at the top. Two #4 Camalots, or even a #4 and #5, are useful for that section. Oct 26, 2015
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  5.8
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  5.8
Don't shy away if you didn't bring a #4. The climb protects well on gear to #3. Oct 29, 2017

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