Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Craig McClenahan, 93 - 94
Page Views: 5,145 total · 29/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Apr 18, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

Using the top anchor for A.C. Devil Dog (5.10d) and Table Manners (5.8), there is a bolt just right of this top anchor nearly directly above A.C. Devil Dog, which leads straight up the severly overhung upper headwall of the Grotto. This is Flight Simulator.

Climb up large jugs for the first three bolts on hellaciously overhung but really solid rock. For the final two bolts and to the top anchors, climbing gets balancy and remains powerful. All moves are pumpy, all moves are excellent.

A Fall in the short traverse section just before the top anchors will undoubtedly put you into flight, so enjoy your drop!

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
JustBrit
Oakland, CA
  5.12b
JustBrit   Oakland, CA
  5.12b
(May 2012) 3rd draw was a chain w/biner in pretty good shape. The other 4 I would set longer runners! May 11, 2012
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
A fun and airy lead. A bit pumpy. Protection is of indoors climbing gym safety level. Two 2-links chains at the anchor. Very indoors climbing gym style route. A bit hard to clean (due to overhang) on descend. 70m rope is a bit excessive to get back to the ground (60m should not be enough, but with a bit of simul/down climbing on Table Manners... hey, just bring your 70m).

Not so good for flash/on-sight attempt but you can try - protection is good.

Really fun route, **** rating.

Link it via a short easy (a bit runout - you do not want to have a rope drag at the top) traverse with Men's Crisis Center to make a super fun, and long, and diverse pitch. Oct 15, 2013