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Routes in The Grotto

AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Men's Crisis Center T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rawhide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Bite T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Grant Hiskes, 1993
Page Views: 4,252 total, 26/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Apr 18, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Please do not place any new bolts or fixed hardware at Table Mountain, and minimize our impact here. Climbing is open, with restrictions: private property. Details

Description

Yeeee Haaaa! Goin to the Chicken Ranch! For Bingo! Named for a couple of reasons, for the Bingo place that's nearby, and also for the excellent slippery feeling you'll get hitting some of the upper holds in the Summer and Fall. Never mind the stink.

This is the rightmost climb in The Grotto, and is the only route that starts outside of the Grotto on the right side. Before the Class 3 downclimb into the Grotto, look for the bolts of Chicken Ranch Bingo above the columns. Climb up the columns to a traverse move accross the top of the columns. It's a ways to the first bolt, but climbing is probably only 5.6 until a 5.8 move right before the first bolt. Head up for a while on overhung but excellent holds. Continue softly right, and then Softly left for a balancy traversy section right before the top anchors. Climbing is solid 5.10b once you get past the columns until the top anchors.

Lowering directly into the pit below requires a 60 meter rope,, so lower wisely with shorter ropes.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Sidewinder (5.11d). 2 of the bolts are manky 1/4", so it's more like 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring slings for the first bolt (or skip it), and the fourth bolts, where the climb makes a right turn.

Photos

Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
This climb was enjoyable, although I felt it was lower in quality than most of the other routes in the Grotto. Finding the proper holds makes for an interesting challenge, because it requires distinguishing between the three origins of white rock- chalk (good), bird/bat shit (ok), and recent rockfall site (bad).

The cracks and columns below offer a direct start that is fun, but the rock is very chossy, especially just below the headwall. If you opt to do the direct start, please be cognizant of the rockfall danger. Mar 13, 2017
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
All but two original bolts have now been replaced as of May 2014 (not by me)

supertopo.com/climbers-foru… May 27, 2014
Luke.V
  5.10a/b
Luke.V  
  5.10a/b
Agree with the bat shit all over the place. Be careful for when its "misting" bat piss as well. This was more prevalent at the welcome wall.

This climb was overall fun. Definitely use a sling for the 4th bolt to minimize rope drag and there are a couple holds that are a bit loose (likely safe but you can tell that they're wedged in, not connected to the rock).

Favorite route in the grotto because it was a relatively easy climb that got you very high (over 130 ft) off the ground. To get to the first bolt I'd also set up a sling if you aren't confident you can get to it because you climb out over an area that drops off significantly. Jun 5, 2013
such a fun climb to be kinda ruined by the disgusting magnitude of shit smeared all over it Jun 3, 2013
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Wash your hands after climbing this. Spring 2013 and the holds up high were covered in bat shit. Mar 3, 2013
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10a
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10a
This is the BEST bolted line I've tried in the Grotto area (incl. Ort Wall, Welcome Wall, Eastern Front) after AC Devil Dog, although I've mostly done the cracks. Decently long, really fun movement, good rock. Don't let the comments dissuade you; I noticed no crap on the rocks, and both of the two rusty bolts have good new bolts nearby, so it's safe. Pretty runout to the first bolt, but easy. If you think there's ANY possibility of you falling down low, you should anchor your belayer in, since the belay ledge is perched above the lower Grotto. May 14, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I would definitely not give this route 4 stars, although it was fun. It goes through the white streak, which is all bat shit. Yes, you are climbing through bat shit so be sure to wash your hands when you're done, especially if you're going to eat something. Also, some of the bolts on this climb looked pretty questionable. One was totally hopeless, by you don't have to clip it. The anchor bolts also looked fairly rusty. Jan 18, 2007