Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Phil Bone (???)
Page Views: 4,683 total · 39/month
Shared By: Ian G. on Apr 25, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

Mixed gear/bolt route next to Rawhide. Climb the crack until it seams out. Keep slapping up the arete looking for micro feet. Crux is more tricky than hard.

Location

Right next to Rawhide!

Protection

Four bolts and cams from purple tcu to .5 camalot will get you up. Don't recall exactly which sizes but you only need 3 or 4 to sew it up.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
On TR, this thing seemed WAY easier than 12a. I felt about 11b to me. I should have tried to lead it! The gear looked great and then plenty of bolts. Next time.... May 22, 2009
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.12a
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.12a
hmmm....I felt it to be harder than 'Grotto Monkey', but definitely not as hard as 'Funny Man.' Both 12a.

For sure, the crux is short. Jul 18, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Almost got it clean on lead on my first attempt, but peeled off mid crux. Ended up finally sending it on my second serious attempt at figuring out the crux.

First 30 feet follow a thin finger crack for hands and micro edges on the face for feet (5.10-). Crux begins 30 feet up with a few thin, balancy moves to a powerful bearhug and a few arete slaps. This brings you to a pocket with a small crimp and a sharp rail... I did an insecure lieback up the rail and high-stepped the pocket to a reachy crimp out to the right. A few more balancy but easier moves up the arete and you're at the chains.

Figure out how to clip the bolt before making the crux moves... or accept the consequences if you fall (clean).

Powerful and balancy moves for sure, but I could see this route going at .11+ in some areas. There are definitely harder .12a's out there. Dec 21, 2009
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
Good and well protected lead. Does not feel as 5.12 for me, a balancy and techy solid 5.11 for sure. Not too much beta intensive (good for on-sight or flash attempt).

As on Oct 14'th 2013 there is an almost detached (unnecessary) crimp near the top, be sure your belayer is wearing helmet and/or be extra accurate. Oct 15, 2013