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Routes in The Grotto

AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Men's Crisis Center T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rawhide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Bite T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,360 total · 7/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 28, 2002
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

This is a line of two thin cracks to climbs just right of the columny A.C. Devil Dog (5.10d).

Using the bolts to climb this route will add a demension of interest, as the bolts are shared between this and The Moss Critique (the route immediately right of it) and are a bit of a reach to the right of the climb.

Think chimneying without the chimney and this will be your route.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

I wouldn't trad lead this, but if you're feeling psychotic, you could using small (up to 1") friends and nuts.

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tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Followed up this one, but I'd consider leading it. Small gear can be found between bolts. One hard - solid 5.11 move low to the ground at the first bolt requires a very high left foot.

The remainder of the route felt like sustained 5.10+. Lots of friction, small crimps and some stemming. You can find some good rests by using the flared dihedral on the left, a few spots allow for hands free rests by lying back on the wall of the dihedral.

A little mossy - but the features that you need to climb the route are mostly clean. Apr 6, 2009
Gargano
Arizona
 
Gargano   Arizona
 
A nice technical route that's worth checking out. It's well protected and a reasonable lead. Thin bouldery moves between solid stances. Supplement the bolts with cams from 0.6"-1". The route treads left of the bolt line for the most part and is free of moss. If you find yourself peddling on vegetation - reconsider your position. Jan 27, 2014
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, CA
 
The anchor bolts are really rusty and seem due for a replacement. 5 days ago

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