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Routes in The Grotto

AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Men's Crisis Center T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rawhide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Bite T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: David Clay, 1995
Page Views: 762 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Apr 18, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Please do not place any new bolts or fixed hardware at Table Mountain, and minimize our impact here. Climbing is open, with restrictions: private property. Details

Description

The leftmost route in The Grotto, this liberally bolted route heads up a crack system for the first 20 feet, and then moves into the fun overhanging section of the headwall above the columns.

Getting over the roof and from the second to the fifth bolt is the tough section, using hidden holds. That hardly anyone climbs the route adds to the mystique of route finding while on the wall.

While this climb has many varied moves and styles of climbing, none of the moves are that fun. The top section is probably only 5.8, but is really runout, 15 feet separate from the second to last to the last bolt, and 20 feet from there to the top bolt. So - don't fall in the top section.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
 
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
 
Yikes... a bit of a head-game to climb this one. No chalk, lots of lichen/moss, quite a bit of loose rock, and runout in the upper section. Wouldn't recommend it. If you do go for it, I would bring a couple cams to protect the bottom section before reaching the first bolt; I think I placed a .5 C4. The rock is pretty bad down there, though, so I'm not sure if the placement would really help keep you off the ground anyway.

Also, there is an alternate "direct" start to this climb. An obvious splitter thin finger crack called "Digit's Delight" (11c) shoots straight up to meet the second (or third?) bolt of this route. I bailed off of it; too hard and painful for me. Looks like a nice crack, but it's only 25-30 feet, and then you've got another 40 feet or so of the uninspiring bolted face climbing. Apr 23, 2010