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Routes in The Grotto

AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Men's Crisis Center T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rawhide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Bite T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Grant Hiskes
Page Views: 8,245 total · 50/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Feb 26, 2005
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details


Rawhide is the most obvious finger crack left of AC Devil Dog on the lower portion of the Grotto's main wall. It is a fun and difficult route with a distinct crux section near the middle of the route.

Stemming right decreases the difficulty.

In the photo below, Rawhide is the crack that starts on the bottom left.


Bring gear up to 2.5 though mostly smaller stuff.

You can set up a top rope by climbing one of the other routes and walking over to the top anchors.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Wowzers. Awesome climb. The business is right in the middle, through a long section of ring locks and rattly fingers. The feet are brutally tough in this section, but fight the urge to stem right... it will decrease the grade significantly. Mostly gear from yellow alien to #0.75 camalot... but a #3 camalot could come in handy at the top and you can get a #1 in at the bottom. The climb stays in your face all the way to the top, so don't think it is over when you get to the roof! Nov 25, 2006
Boston, MA
Dennis   Boston, MA
What a great crack. Felt like sustained 10d if you stick with the crack and don't stem. Dec 24, 2007
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Saw a guy climb this route with his jaw wired shut. That was impressive, and made the Grotto quite loud with his breathing. Jan 5, 2008
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Sustained, covers about every bad hand size. tight hands, rattly fingers and fingertips. A few bomber locks in the finger section. Good feet are hard to find, but the falls are clean. Seems more like .11a, especially if they call Snake Bite .11b. Apr 2, 2009
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Did it again and fell again. This thing is painful and sustained. Gear is also challenging because of all the crystals on the walls of the crack. Forget TCU and organize your rack well, get those BD .4, .5 and .75's ready and don't be afraid to use them... quickly. Dec 21, 2009
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
Not a ton of crack climbing at the grotto, but this route is worth hauling your rack! Great Crack! Jun 15, 2012
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Badass route!!! Surprisingly sustained - it seemed like when I had good jams, the feet were poor and vice versa. And it keeps at you until you're just about at the top. I'd agree with 11a as the bay area rock book calls it. Jun 1, 2015
David R
Sunnyvale, CA
David R   Sunnyvale, CA
Just did it again yesterday. Not sure of 10d/11a. For reference, I think it's harder than Lucky streaks, Serenity Crack. Only 11s I've done are at the Creek/Zion so a little hard to compare. But VERY FUN. Feb 2, 2017
Peter J
Davis, CA
Peter J   Davis, CA
When you get to where the crack widens under the roof and you get one hand jam, there is an incredible foot out left. On or off? Much, much harder if you don't use it. Moving off the jam is definitely the crux if you don't use the foot. Dec 12, 2017
Vincent Gallegos
Vincent Gallegos  
I thought it was a 5.9 until I got on it and whipped. If you don't know how to crack climb, climb this until you can lead it, then lead it. Then you can crack climb! If it were longer it would be 4 stars. Dec 22, 2017

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