Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,883 total · 21/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

This route climbs up a crack system on the mid- left side, and is the crack just left of the dihedral to roof route called Snake Byte (5.11b). It can be indentified as a single crack on the ground, which turns into a system of two cracks about 20 feet off the ground, and then turns into a 3 crack system about 40 feet up.

The crux is either the lower crack, or the middle double crack section, depending on how big your hands are.

All protection is solid on this route, and there is almost always a good lock just where you need it.

Protection

Gear to 1 1/2" in the bottom 2/3 of the route, and anything goes up top.

Photos

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Great route with good gear. A nice warmup for Rawhide. Nov 25, 2006
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Good route, maybe a tad soft for .10b...? Mar 18, 2007
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Cool... nothing too challenging, as long as you're proficient with finger locks. Apr 2, 2009
Agree that it felt soft for 5.10b - the 5.10a just to the left of this was more a strenuous lead in my opinion. Good stances for placing gear at the start, wasn't ever worried about protecting the opening moves. Very cool finger locks going through the top half of the route - highly recommended! Oct 23, 2011
Latvian climber
  5.10b
Latvian climber  
  5.10b
Agree that Hole in the Wall felt harder. This route has so many horizontal breaks that you can use first as jugs for your hands and then shelves for your feet once you get on top of them. The abundance of rests makes it soft at .10b. I only used one #1 Camalot on this and nothing bigger. Some really cool fingerlocks where it splits into a trident. Jan 2, 2019